I will try thatJust try disconnecting the coolant temp sensor and see if it makes a difference to the glow plugs duration. It's possible that doing so might default to a worst case situation and make the glow plugs run at maximum duration.
You mean it starts easier when the engine has had the cylinders firing a bit to help splash oil around and so the starter motor has to work less hard on a 2nd try to get things up to speed? Maybe try watching the crank sensor readings during a "hard" and an "easy" start?But it starts right up arter the initial «hard start»
That's right.You mean it starts easier when the engine has had the cylinders firing a bit to help splash oil around and so the starter motor has to work less hard on a 2nd try to get things up to speed? Maybe try watching the crank sensor readings during a "hard" and an "easy" start?
In your HVAC module, Group 4, Field 2 should be the A/C refrigerant temperature as measured by the G454 sensor. I am not an A/C specialist, but I agree that -39°C seems unrealistically low.may have found "a" problem tho.
I don't know which sensor this is, but the outsidetemp was not -39°C (It was more like 0°C).
Have a look for "Engine Speed (G28)" in the Advanced Measuring Values for Engine. Log the data on a few hard and easy starts and plot a graph to see if there is a difference.That's right.
Sure! I can do that. What values am I looking for when watching crank sensor readings?
That reminds me what I once did with an old Mk.1 with respect to the radiator fan. The stock fan thermo-switch would let the coolant get quite hot when the car was not moving. The next cooler one would run the fan too much, even when the car was moving. So the solution was: Stock fan thermo-switch plus a toggle switch on the dash wired in parallel with the thermo-switch. Come to a stop: Turn on fans manually. Drive away again, turn them off manually.I have also made the installation as clean as I possibly can