How to emergency Regen while sitting

   #42  

Jack@European_Parts

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This car use 504/507 VW spec oil. So if you use any other oil it will clogged that DPF in very short time.
I disagree Marin I have tested this and the SAE oil does it absolutely less.........
 
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mikeme

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Jack,
could you follow up on what exact oil you use/recommend, and what values over what time you say are less with the non-507 00 oil?
 
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mikeme

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   #45  

ivagp

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your quote "I do not have any oil containers around but I know for 100% it was vw spec". not to beat the subject into the ground their ara many different vw spec oils but only one for engine with dpf.which would 504/507.
 
   #46  

Jack@European_Parts

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Pennzoil.......... the finest natural crude on the Earth.
Oil change mandatory every 3 to 5k MAX.

Great results with non diesel oils such as Wal-Mart Tech..........

Jack,
could you follow up on what exact oil you use/recommend, and what values over what time you say are less with the non-507 00 oil?
NOPE do your own research and verify it yourself.........

Don't forget to fix your issue with crankcase breathing.......!!!!!!!!!
 
   #47  

jyoung8607

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Pennzoil.......... the finest natural crude on the Earth.
Oil change mandatory every 3 to 5k MAX.

Great results with non diesel oils such as Wal-Mart Tech..........
Why do you think that is? Honest question for my own education. I've considered diesels for my family before, but the emissions control complexities are getting downright scary.

  • Oil changes more often than manufacturer recommendation? Oils meeting API specs should be pretty darn good regardless of base stock.
    • Less DPF-clogging combustion byproducts being carried around in suspension? Would bypass filtration help?
    • More additive pack remaining?
  • Something truly different about conventional vs. synthetic 504/507 formulation?
  • Engines regularly seen in Jack's shop tend to be healthier and throw less crap into the DPF?
VW has formulated 504/507 oils as "low ash" I believe, and that is distinct from "low soot". My understanding is diesel particulate (soot) can be burned down to ash in the DPF, so as long as the regen process is working, ash load should be the limiting factor for DPF life in a healthy system. So, a low ash oil seems desirable.

Jason
 
   #48  

Jack@European_Parts

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Why do you think that is? Honest question for my own education. I've considered diesels for my family before, but the emissions control complexities are getting downright scary.

•Oil changes more often than manufacturer recommendation? Oils meeting API specs should be pretty darn good regardless of base stock.
•Less DPF-clogging combustion byproducts being carried around in suspension? Would bypass filtration help?
•More additive pack remaining?

•Something truly different about conventional vs. synthetic 504/507 formulation?
•Engines regularly seen in Jack's shop tend to be healthier and throw less crap into the DPF?

VW has formulated 504/507 oils as "low ash" I believe, and that is distinct from "low soot". My understanding is diesel particulate (soot) can be burned down to ash in the DPF, so as long as the regen process is working, ash load should be the limiting factor for DPF life in a healthy system. So, a low ash oil seems desirable.

Jason
The sweetest crude comes form the USA in PA. Pennzoil

I think it's just a matter of the rings and valve guide areas being sealed better with the SAE oil stopping the contamination being accelerated.

Ever see how fast oil gets turned black from honey color after a change? It's almost instant due to the increased squish of the higher compression generated.

If air and fuel get by the rings...... we get a compounding effect of PSI and fuel rise in the oil.
Then the damage starts because it damages the rings or walls allowing even more Fuel/Air to blow by the areas.

This air now adds to the aeration of oil........... and causes temps to increase and friction of hydraulic systems to suffer.
Hence why gas and TDI engines are having PCV shortcomings. The FSI just raises the flags earlier then the TDI with MIL.

And yes changing the oil more often will aid in removing contaminates.
People can say all they want that we have an additive that takes the particulates and fuel mixed into the oil and converts it into a super slick substance circumventing the contamination........ I call it bullshit.........

Oh yeah.......... there are differences.......The synthetic oils are a great slick stuff on certain parts of the engine and not so great on others such as chains, rollers or most importantly RINGS and Guides.....HPP pumps or cam follower! Now we know VW can build a cam that goes 1 million miles but choses to use these not so proven designs trying to see if they can split the oil atom.

Without seal we lose Compression and without seal we gain contamination. The hindrances and track record of precision tight tolerances have been tested and they in my opinion lost.
We started with very aggressive polymers to thicken oil at such rate.......... it raised PSI and friction so much....... that data resulted in new blends from that knowledge such as 0w20.

The problem with the polymers is it thickens the oil on the hydraulic side, but still doesn't change the fact it doesn't stick well to walls or rings in the cylinder.

Most engines that are seen in my shop are from a cataclysm that others couldn't fix.........mostly the dealer ..........then going forward the bullshit stops.
The ones that have been with me from day one seem to have less issues because they do what I tell them to and not gimmick services either.

I think that as soon as someone gets there head out of their ass in GOVT.......... to look and see that taking blow by gases before they go through a proper reclaim and not directly into the intake or turbo charger will be a step forward.

There are other ways of doing things it's just they are not doing it........
 
   #49  

jnojetta

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your quote "I do not have any oil containers around but I know for 100% it was vw spec". not to beat the subject into the ground their ara many different vw spec oils but only one for engine with dpf.which would 504/507.
Just to make it clear for everyone, when I bought oil it was for a 2012 Jetta TDI. Most of the time I needed to order the oil to make sure it was the right stuff. This car is a maintenance nightmare when it come to wanting to change the oil on a weekend because most places don't carry the right stuff. I may have a qt left somewhere, if I find it I will post it.
 
   #50  

Jack@European_Parts

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Just to make it clear for everyone, when I bought oil it was for a 2012 Jetta TDI. Most of the time I needed to order the oil to make sure it was the right stuff. This car is a maintenance nightmare when it come to wanting to change the oil on a weekend because most places don't carry the right stuff. I may have a qt left somewhere, if I find it I will post it.
Another point I have aforementioned and is for many a similar dilemma.............

To jump through the hoops of fire, to only still have the issues is bullshit........
 
   #51  

Uwe

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Just a quick note: Jack's opinions are his own and do not necessarily reflect RT's thinking with regards to oil. ;)

Personally, I run the factory spec oil in our TDIs *and* change frequently.

-Uwe-
 
   #52  

Jack@European_Parts

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Just a quick note: Jack's opinions are his own and do not necessarily reflect RT's thinking with regards to oil.

Personally, I run the factory spec oil in our TDIs *and* change frequently.

Hence Frequently...........
Oil gets contaminated over time...... even more so when left to deal with extended intervals.

Extended intervals assures problems...........

Signed the Crackpot Jack
 
   #53  

jnojetta

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Dpf is on its way back in. Foaming oven cleaner made the inside look like new. Thanks Jack. I will try to upload a picture but I guess I can't do that on the mobile site.
 
   #54  

Jack@European_Parts

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Dpf is on its way back in. Foaming oven cleaner made the inside look like new. Thanks Jack. I will try to upload a picture but I guess I can't do that on the mobile site.



Sometimes I run the snake camera with a light in..... to do a good inspection.

The foam does all the work and makes the stuff break up, so it can be carried out by the water rinse.

Would love to see pics before and after.........:)

Similar process is used to clean a CAT with an Acid but I was like hey........ a BASE is easier to get my hands on and handle/cheap.

I find it does a great job on PTF and CAT........ or even wakes up a CAT that was below threshold!

If concerned with corrosion....... just run a soda ash solution with water and then final water rinse........after taking vinegar/mild citric acid to bring down.
Keep in mind folks........ that things that are aluminum should be avoided with things like oven cleaner or very short contact and rinsed/retuned PH. to neutral.

Note:
409 and Wurth super spray all........ make very good emulsifiers, to follow up cleaning diesel soot/ash.
 
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   #55  

jnojetta

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So i have re installed the cleaned dpf and went into vcds and told the ecm that i installed a new dpf filter. My flashing glow plug light and check engine light have went off but i still have the dpf light on. How do i go about getting that off? Thanks
 
   #56  

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When I try to read the codes it comes up with a message saying emissions code found then it says 7e8 no code found. Something like that. Wtf is going on. I selected replaced dpf filter. Do I need to reset oil ash also. "Ecm" replacement? Then enter my milage in?
 
   #57  

jnojetta

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dpf light stuck on

I have replace a bad get sensor and cleaned out my dpf filter. All of my lights have went out besides my dpf light. How to I get it to go off? Soot level and ash level are at or near zero.
 
   #58  

Uwe

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Have you been to Adaptation channel 16 in 01-Engine? If not, please go there. ;)

-Uwe-
 
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   #59  

jnojetta

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Where is the channel 16? I don't think I have been there but I feel like I have tired everything. What am I looking for when I get there?
 
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