How to emergency Regen while sitting

   #21  

Andy

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FYI, when the ECU decides the loading is within spec and allows a regen, you should hold down the accelerator and brake until the regen initiates. It helps to turn on all electrical consumers like seat heaters, defrost, etc. to increase the load:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/inde..._Emergency_Regeneration#1.6l.2F2.0l_R4_CR-TDI

I ran it successfully on my old 2012 Passat TDI (that used UDS) and I remember buckling up my seatbelt before it worked, but that may just have been coincidence.
 
   #22  

ivagp

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liqua molly has a dpf cleaner. has any body used it and what was the outcome.
 
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mikeme

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There is a lot of confusion in this thread.

the DPF accumulates soot. the ECU has two estimates for the amount, calculated, and measured.

during passive or active regeneration, the soot is converted to gasses which exit the tailpipe, and a small amount of ash remains.

excess ash can result from the wrong oil. one of the reasons low ash oil is specified is that the expectation is some oil will bypass valve seats and rings and leak in turbo ending up in the DPF.

excess soot accumulation comes from not having regeneration on a regular basis, either from short drives only, or from broken sensors.

Jack,

how many DPFs have you used oven cleaner on? which years?
 
   #25  

Uwe

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You need new DPF. It is over limit.Limit is 45 and that why you can not do regeneration.
It is probably use wrong oil with lot of idling and cause this.
I have many customers with miles likes yours (105k) and soot level is around 20. I have seen cars with 150K with soot around 25. So I can tell you 100% that car was using wrong old .
Why do you think it's wrong oil? The ECU doesn't know what oil is in the crank case, and the calculated value (by ECU) is what's preventing a regen, not the measured value. If measured was greater than calculated, then I might suspect wrong oil.

-Uwe-
 
   #26  

Jack@European_Parts

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Jack,

how many DPFs have you used oven cleaner on? which years?
I have saved about 75 + people a 5K + estimate that were told that was needed by the dealer for Particulate replacement.
Everyone of them........ not only were able to be cleaned this way............ they are still fully functional and displaying much lower soot content with SAE oil after my advisement.

2009> to current years.

That's over $375K I saved those customers.......... So I feel pretty good about it.

Just the trap in parts is over 4K quoted + sensors and CAT or other things that get stirred into the pot.


The main reason I post these cheap fixes is for a # of reasons.....

One they work.....
Two I love VW-Audi cars........
Three...........I become increasingly pissed off by stupid designs that force my customers to consider a Honda and Toyota not because of the money only but because they're just like this is bullshit.....

Because of stupid things such as water ingress, windows falling down, bumper and sub frame hitting speed bumps, ridiculous lubrication requirements with the inability to be able to buy the fluids needed anywhere, and then the fact that they don't do what they were designed/stated..... with chains to stretch/brake/HPP cam or followers etc......... and sludge.

To me this stuff is either planned obsolescence or just a mountain of stupid........ that needs to be leveled with the excavator.
 
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   #27  

ivagp

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I tell my cust diesel is a great thing if your going to a 75% high speed driving other wise stick to gas. no matter what brand you drive. so ? is what oil is being used. he probably doesn't.
 
   #28  

Jack@European_Parts

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Jack,

So a couple of follow-up questions.

exactly how do you use the over cleaner?

is this to reduce ash, or accumulated soot?

when you say SAE oil, I assume you mean some other grade than the 507 00 spec called for by VW? what do you recommend, and what interval to change?


Thanks


Already all prior stated or in other posts use the search keys.......and read.



How do you reset the ecu to allow future regenerations, and how are you measuring soot levels after the cleaning?
No different then when a replacement is installed as per the repair manual.

Based on these questions do you sell or have sold some new traps or is this to point to your aforementioned site in other posts with PayPal donations? :p

Since you like to point out specific do's and DON'TS !
 
   #29  

jnojetta

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I tell my cust diesel is a great thing if your going to a 75% high speed driving other wise stick to gas. no matter what brand you drive. so ? is what oil is being used. he probably doesn't.
You need new DPF. It is over limit.Limit is 45 and that why you can not do regeneration.
It is probably use wrong oil with lot of idling and cause this.
I have many customers with miles likes yours (105k) and soot level is around 20. I have seen cars with 150K with soot around 25. So I can tell you 100% that car was using wrong old .
I only use the oil that meets that vw standard. 500.1 or whatever it is. Its been amsoil and one other brand the auto stores sell but they meet spec. The problem came from a bad get sensor while on a trip. Sensor 1 failed and I believe it caused the car to run rich. Also couldn't get the vw to cover the faulty exhaust flap which I would think would hinder regeneration.
 
   #30  

Jack@European_Parts

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I only use the oil that meets that vw standard. 500.1 or whatever it is. Its been amsoil and one other brand the auto stores sell but they meet spec. The problem came from a bad get sensor while on a trip. Sensor 1 failed and I believe it caused the car to run rich. Also couldn't get the vw to cover the faulty exhaust flap which I would think would hinder regeneration.

Yeah ............my point exactly.........that's why I state what I do.......You are not alone.....

I like my way verse taking items off and deleting them which is another method I am not fond of at all.

Did you know that when preforming Regen that more NOX is created at this time than when during normal driving?

It has to run at that sweet spot to run lean/hot.......... which is also why it weakens the exhaust and components life with more frequent Regens.

Seems counter productive to me and I believe that there should be evacuation ports to service a PTF system or ash sump.

There is no feasible reason to weld it all shut......... so it can have such ridiculous costs for a rat maze rubix cube.
In 2009 models CBEA they make you buy the CAT and PTF as a complete assembly.......seems fair.....NOT!


I would like to further point out that these problems with DPF/EGR/CAT are 99% of the time related to blow by gases.

A quick review of gas engines 05> with these complex remediation's for the blow by gases is a complete failure.
Just look at the rate of PCV in TFSI and TSI or 5 cylinder VC stories.

These same methods with even additional components ( unmonitored OBD for functions still :banghead:) to convolute the diagnostic process in block or VC.

These valves and diaphragms fail no differently in the TDI and are the main cause for DPF and sensor or CAT issues.

If you only treat the effect you get the same problem over and over again.

Lets start with a correction of the effect by fixing the problems.

Anyone can read the repair manual verbatim or its warnings.........I am not saying to ignore them....I am saying analyze them because they are not always correct.

Otherwise we are trapped in the box.........think outside it.....FREE YOUR MINDS cheers!

Don't jump off a building either.

 
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   #31  

mikeme

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I am not selling anything, but own a CBEA and like to figure out how it works.

so, Jack, sorry I asked the question vs re-reading your earlier post carefully.

if I get this right, you remove the exhaust flap, and also the DPF from turbo? then spray foaming oven cleaner in, from the front end, and then hose it off to flush what ever goes?

then air dry,

use VCDS to reset. (resets ash load as well as soot calculations, so that if the other sensors are all working, the ECU will operate regenerations as per the original design.

is this about right?

seems like this could dissolve and remove quite a bit of soot, but would not remove the ash. (or do you backflush to get ash out?)

The exhaust flap failure will not impact regeneration of the DPF. my flap failed last month, and I drove from VA to NY and back (probably pretty close to you at some point) and watched a couple regerations with the MIL on from the failed exhaust flap.
 
   #32  

Jack@European_Parts

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Was reading your posts and contributions in the other forum.......very good!

The foam does the work and carries the shit right out with water as a conduit.

Technique is how it is perfected.........get cracking/cleaning. :p
Safety first!
Kind of disappointed you forgot the remediation part to bucket for properly disposing of hazardous chemicals or the soot/ash.

Sometimes I do in car or take parts out and then soak in fluid with ultrasound tank.
 
   #35  

mikeme

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You need new DPF. It is over limit.Limit is 45 and that why you can not do regeneration.
It is probably use wrong oil with lot of idling and cause this.
I have many customers with miles likes yours (105k) and soot level is around 20. I have seen cars with 150K with soot around 25. So I can tell you 100% that car was using wrong old .
http://www.natef.org/NATEF/media/NATEFMedia/VW Files/2-0-TDI-SSP.pdf

check out page 65. normal operation of these cars is passive and active regeneration that keeps soot levels below 24 grams, and the dpf lamp dark. my car going on 140k miles, and the soot level bounces around as I drive. having more miles on the car is correlated with more ash, not more soot.
 
   #36  

jnojetta

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Well I guess I will give everyone an update. I have removed the dpf from the car and I'm going to be taking Jack's advice and cleaning it with the foaming oven cleaner and water. I will be sure to let everyone know how it works once the system is reinstalled into the car. Fingers are crossed as I do not want to fork out the money to replace or delete the system. Thank you so much for everyone's input thus far. Its great to have such a great resource of information here.
 
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Jetta 97

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Why do you think it's wrong oil? The ECU doesn't know what oil is in the crank case, and the calculated value (by ECU) is what's preventing a regen, not the measured value. If measured was greater than calculated, then I might suspect wrong oil.

-Uwe-
I meant for long time this car use wrong oil with lot of ash and clogged DPF.
 
   #38  

Jetta 97

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Well I guess I will give everyone an update. I have removed the dpf from the car and I'm going to be taking Jack's advice and cleaning it with the foaming oven cleaner and water. I will be sure to let everyone know how it works once the system is reinstalled into the car. Fingers are crossed as I do not want to fork out the money to replace or delete the system. Thank you so much for everyone's input thus far. Its great to have such a great resource of information here.
This is other alternative, and if it was my car I would do this:
http://fsxinc.com/Clean/dpf/dpfTypes.html
 
   #39  

Jetta 97

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I only use the oil that meets that vw standard. 500.1 or whatever it is. Its been amsoil and one other brand the auto stores sell but they meet spec. The problem came from a bad get sensor while on a trip. Sensor 1 failed and I believe it caused the car to run rich. Also couldn't get the vw to cover the faulty exhaust flap which I would think would hinder regeneration.
This car use 504/507 VW spec oil. So if you use any other oil it will clogged that DPF in very short time.
 
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jnojetta

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This car use 504/507 VW spec oil. So if you use any other oil it will clogged that DPF in very short time.
I'm sure that's what I used. I do not have any oil containers around but I know for 100% it was vw spec. I'm sure my problem came from the bad EGT sensor.
 
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