BCM capabilities

   #21  

StorableComa

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Sean: great to read that your learning curve progresses unabated !!

Whilst I personally reckon that whoever authored the descriptors for the software switches on the Long Coding Helper (LCH) screens have done an excellent job - I'm not sure that you should expect great clarity from these labels (mostly because of the short, allowable field length)

In regard to your question - perhaps I can share a suggestion that I use in such occasions in the hope that it might help; as you may have understood, the new HEX series cables/dongles allow the user to access 2 x separate LCH screens; the normal VCDS screens and the so-called "Yellow" screens. As a personal aside, I ignore entirely the "risk" message that VCDS displays regarding the veracity of the information in the yellow screens - I've compared this information with other well known and well respected diagnostic devices and the data seems to be identical to that in the VCDS yellow LCH screens. I personally have complete confidence in this information

So - when I'm puzzled about the meaning of the descriptor in the LCH screen, I often find it instructive to look at the descriptor on the other screen version. This approach isn't always successful - but it often does help!.

In respect of your particular question - here is the comparison:



As you can see - the yellow LCH screen says that this Bit refers to the Dynamic AFS light. Of course leveling is normally part of non-incandescent headlight fittings (by law in most countries) - but I'm not sure why the non-yellow screen refers particularly to "levelling".

I'm tempted to believe the (risky) yellow LCH screen; I'm guessing that Byte 4, Bit 3 enables the light on the dashboard that indicates when high-beam assist is operational (i.e. the blue high-beam light with "AUTO") - I think. I've checked a couple of cars on my database and the long-code strings tend to confirm my hypothesis!!

I've also looked at the WD and there is no physical wire from J285 (i.e. the hex17 module) to any component on the dynamic AFS system - so I assume that the Bit 3 software switch is purely a CAN message enabling facility - I think

Don

PS: Interesting spelling of "leveling/levelling" ; label clearly authored by a non-American!!
PPS: Confused about reference to hex17 module and "decoding a long code to adaptation"; the task of translation of long-code to channels is ONLY required on BCM for late model MQB vehicles!
Ah, thank you Don! It was late, and I had spent way too long upside down underneath my dash when I wrote this. I may have confused which addresses I have access to long coding. I believe I was able to figure this out and will be moving forward with the coding today.

I was able to finish most of my install, but my harness connector for the Fuse box must be incorrect as I can't get it to engage from the rear even with the lower lock undone. I'll more than likely just snip it and use a tap a fuse/piggyback fuse connection for power.

I'll update if I run into any issues, but I think I have most of the coding sorted now along with Zero815's walkthrough on NAR Bi-xenon to Osram.

Thank you,
Sean
 
   #22  

George Ab

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Sean,

Glad you are getting it sorted. Interesting and creative project. The Osram lights are quite nice looking. I attempted a clean install using an empty slots in the fusebox for headlight power, but after two days attempting to free up those purple keeps to install I relented. I used piggyback with their own fuse. I can tell you that since doing this over three and a half years ago it has not bothered me in the least.
 
   #23  

dvw-r

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Sean,

Glad you are getting it sorted. Interesting and creative project. The Osram lights are quite nice looking. I attempted a clean install using an empty slots in the fusebox for headlight power, but after two days attempting to free up those purple keeps to install I relented. I used piggyback with their own fuse. I can tell you that since doing this over three and a half years ago it has not bothered me in the least.
Just FYI, the lower part of the fusebox isn't locked with those purple tabs. You could guide your teminal connector with a big zip/cable tie.
You just have to figure out which open slots are Terminal 15 or 30.

I saved this picture to my computer and I forgot where I took it from. So no credits for me, but for the guy/girl who discovered this. :)

dwv-r
 
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   #24  

Cuzoe

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I think Zero815 (going from memory) posted that picture in a thread about adding fuses over on GolfMk7. I have added fuses, by removing the purple keeps, and it was awful. I vowed to never do it again... but in my latest round of retrofits I couldn't bring myself to add 9 circuits using add-a-fuse's. Granted I could consolidate to 4 add-a-fuse's since some of the systems I'm retrofitting are on the same terminal, but that would mean systems would share fuses which is not ideal.

@StorableComa is this done yet? And where's the DIY? I may have asked you this already but do all of the Osrams support self-leveling? I have Osrams and still have the bumper removed and lower dash accessed. Plus I'm adding the level sensors for my DCC retrofit. I would just need the headlight range module I suppose.
 
   #25  

StorableComa

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I think Zero815 (going from memory) posted that picture in a thread about adding fuses over on GolfMk7. I have added fuses, by removing the purple keeps, and it was awful. I vowed to never do it again... but in my latest round of retrofits I couldn't bring myself to add 9 circuits using add-a-fuse's. Granted I could consolidate to 4 add-a-fuse's since some of the systems I'm retrofitting are on the same terminal, but that would mean systems would share fuses which is not ideal.

@StorableComa is this done yet? And where's the DIY? I may have asked you this already but do all of the Osrams support self-leveling? I have Osrams and still have the bumper removed and lower dash accessed. Plus I'm adding the level sensors for my DCC retrofit. I would just need the headlight range module I suppose.
I attempted to run the fuse connection to SC36 as the Osram lights do not require a power connection to the fuse box, they come with their own direct to battery connections. I tried the zip tie trick, and gave up. I figure the fuse well is too deep to force the connection to lock with such a thin gauge wire, I couldn't get the force needed and even attempting to use some hooks/picks failed. Ended up just using a add a fuse connection on SC35. I was tempted to attempt to tap power to SC35 like George did in his retrofit, but my wiring harness is wrapped extremely tight behind the fuse box and after a few days I didn't feel like tracing to a more accessible spot. This was with the Carsystems or Kufatec harness I purchased for this retrofit. Power tap was just for the AFS module 12v.

Zero's PDF can be found here, but a quick image of the basic Xenon to Osram swap.


I reached out to Osram directly, they said that the Halogen model does have stepper motors, the Xenon's are faster. Though I was unable to get a pinout of the Halogen headlight. This is my current Halogen 10 pin to 14 pin harness currently, in addition to the 4 wires Zero has added for leveling with the Euro low line module. These can be found in the PDF, but it's basically sending 4 pins from the AFS module to each headlight to level based on the rear auto level sensor position.
Current Pins from Carside to Headlight side harness: 4(DRL)>12, 5(GND)>7 (Will be running a 14awg wire for 5 harness side to the ground nut on either side of the engine bay just to be safe), 6(Low B.)>6, 8(High B.)>11 (leuchte 8/9), 9(turn)>9, and 10(SML)>10.

I repurposed pin 8( leuchte 8/9) rather than running new connections as a normal Bi-Xenon retrofit would for the shutters, and was able to bypass having to run power for the lights as stated earlier.

I've seen some people use a stepper switch leveling setup (Bearded deatiler? I don't recall) I believe with the Halogen Osrams in my research, but didn't dig too deep after confirming what I'd need with Zero.

Currently I have issues with short to ground on both headlights, ordered OEM 14pin (don't cheap out on Chinese connectors I suppose) to see if this rectifies the issue - But I believe it's because my AFS module is from an US Audi, and not programed for VW. Rather than attempt to get a dealer to ODIS/Fazit it (if even possible) I ordered a second from Sweden out of a GTI.

I'll update once I've repinned and gotten the new module as to my outcome.

Edit: Outside of those changes I mainly followed @George Ab 's retrofit guide for pre 7.5 retrofits as far as coding, making sure to swap leutche 10/11 for 8/9 according to my pin out.
 
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   #26  

StorableComa

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Sean,

Glad you are getting it sorted. Interesting and creative project. The Osram lights are quite nice looking. I attempted a clean install using an empty slots in the fusebox for headlight power, but after two days attempting to free up those purple keeps to install I relented. I used piggyback with their own fuse. I can tell you that since doing this over three and a half years ago it has not bothered me in the least.
I can see why, after several hours and a few days of crawling upside down and still running into additional roadblocks I decided a tap/add a fuse was best. I wanted to confirm power and sort everything else, and if it bothered me that much I'd come back to to break it after it was working completely. :D

I don't think the add a fuse is going to bother me too much, unless I redo the whole configuration for a full OEM setup like you did. Even then, I might just follow your footsteps and tap SC37 and something higher that's empty in the box.
 
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