2004 TOUAREG YES CRANK, NO START

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Davethewave1

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Also,

Does anyone have a part number or place to get new metal crimp connections for the back of the fuse box (where the relays plug in)???

My plan is to try and clean them and snug them up if possible, but if not I would like to remove the old metal pin and crimp on a fresh new end.

Thanks,
 
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Pinpointdiag

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Can I say, is it not the case that a short to ground fault code often means the Ecu is seeing a low voltage, often not a short to ground but actually just a missing feed. An ECU can’t tell the difference between a short to ground or a missing feed as the result of its circuit test at the ECU pin is the same, zero volts. The o2 sensor heater circuit high resistance faults are again the Ecu looking for the return voltage that would be present on the Ecu pulsed negative when the controlled heater circuit is switched on. Again the ECU can only tell that the result of its test is an incorrect voltage at the ECU pin for that circuit Ether caused by a high resistance or a missing feed. It’s a little different on the o2 heater circuit because it’s not just a switched negative but instead it’s PWM.

I haven’t got the wiring diagram handy but it seems likely that all the fault codes are down to one missing feed.
I would give one device (an easy one to access one like maybe the evap valve) a feed with a power probe on the supply side. Then you will be back feeding all the others and be able to clear all the codes.
Maybe even start it. .

If there is a short then the power probe will just trip out.

If that works then you still have to trace the cause of the missing feed. By working backwards. Or possibly the short circuit. You can’t do any harm feeding something with 12v thats supposed to have 12v on it anyway. Never give any wire a feed unless you know what it’s purpose is.




https://youtu.be/lQRpM2_WB7I

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/sealey...207nacLTrMWM9FQH6hBoCzLgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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   #43  

Jack@European_Parts

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https://forums.ross-tech.com/showth...CRANK-NO-START&p=195531&viewfull=1#post195531

4) Pulled up drivers carpet & inspected drivers footwell wiring for corrosion.
Found minor & cut and re-spliced connections.

What is status of this area in visual pictures please?

Has the KESSY been removed opened and inspected yet?

If not can you please post pictures of top and bottom of board?

What is the status for output of ECU supply relay at respective PIN's and relay terminals and what happens if emulated?


3) Bench test ECU/PCM: found in good working order. no fault to grounds.
ECU Tested on bench how, just for COM or were actual tests done fore all respective outputs?

Was ECU opened and inspected for water ingress, if not pictures please?


16441 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2: Heating Circuit
P0057 - 002 - Short to Ground
16421 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Heating Circuit
P0037 - 002 - Short to Ground
17876 - EVAP Canister Solenoid Valve 2 (N115)
P1468 - 002 - Short to Ground
17836 - Circuit for Brake Vacuum Pump
P1428 - 002 - Short to Ground
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2
P1114 - 002 - Internal Resistance too High <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< WHY?
17548 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B2 S2
P1140 - 002 - Internal Resistance too High
 
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   #44  

Dietrich

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I would also suspect the Kessy maybe filled with water as I saw this on other forum websites as well with the same car.

Also maybe a wiring loom broken and shorted to ground somewhere on the firewall, hence all the "No Communication" messages to the modules, even the transmission module and ECM
 
   #45  

Dana

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Also,

Does anyone have a part number or place to get new metal crimp connections for the back of the fuse box (where the relays plug in)???

My plan is to try and clean them and snug them up if possible, but if not I would like to remove the old metal pin and crimp on a fresh new end.

Thanks,
My suggestion would be to firstly identify the "relay plate" housing part number (7L0 937 503, 7L0 937 503 D or both) based on position and the number printed on the existing parts. Next, determine the wire size beneath all terminals that need to be replaced and then ring the dealer with that info. They can look up the details for each housing part numbers to see which repair wires are needed.

For instance, there are at least 14 possible repair wires for the 7L0 937 503 D housing and 000 979 021 E is a random example of one of the small (.5mm) repair wire. That one in particular may or may not need to be replaced but that's how VW/Audi sell new terminals (with the repair wire).

Edit, I don't have any experience with this brand but a 3rd party option (with OEM cross reference numbers) might be a brand like this: https://www.amazon.com/Macroconn-terminals-repair-000979212E-pieces/dp/B077CV35DH
 
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   #46  

Davethewave1

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EUREKA....ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!! :) and I drove it to work this morning.

Alright,

After using my rental tool from my local auto parts shop I consistently was getting odd/inconsistent readings from the the drivers side plenum ebox.

When I would use the tool to check if a relay socket was good (where the relay plugs in to in the ebox) I would get either a bad ground or a bad power reading. Then when I would apply either more or less pressure (or wiggle the tester around) the readings would change.

What I thought that this meant was that the metal clips on the end of the wires (that the relay plugs in to) needed to be snugged up.

Here is what I did and what I found...

First, I had to remove the hood entirely to gain good access to the drivers side plenum ebox.

Then I removed the 5 star headed screws that hold the plenum ebox together and opened the entire thing like a conk shell.

On the inside of the plenum ebox is a hornets nets of wires and connections/splices. From the factory the wires are crimped and taped (looks like duct tape). On many of these connections the tape had clearly been wet and when I removed the tape the wiring had a little green corrosion and on some of the smaller wire connections the end of the wire was broken.

Needless to say I cleaned all of the larger/good connections and cut/spliced the smaller connections. With all of the connections clean and solid I soldered the ends...AND IT STARTED WITH NO CODES!!!!

Thank you all again for your help and to anyone who gets water in the drivers plenum ebox #1 DON'T! and #2 IF IT DOES GET WET CHECK THE CONNECTIONS INSIDE FOR CORROSION AND/OR BROKEN WIRE CONNECTIONS.:thumbs:
 
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