Engine dies or rough idles only in cold weather

[PetrolDave]

TV = Throttle Valve

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Why not verify with logs and decade box & to see temp compare or if ECU can be verified with offset of resistor to authenticate issue?

Probably best to study how things work versus speculate huh?

 

[PetrolDave]

Probably best to study how things work versus speculate huh?

+1

https://www.myodesie.com/wiki/index/returnEntry/id/2956

 

[cornflakes]

Why not verify with logs and decade box & to see temp compare or if ECU can be verified with offset of resistor to authenticate issue?

Probably best to study how things work versus speculate huh?

I agree. Problem is, I don't understand what you just said. Is it a kind of scan I can log? If you could tell me which measuring blocks to add in my adv. measuring options
then maybe I can show you a log with alll the pertinent data you need.

Also, what exactly are we trying to figure out here in plain english? Now that I know that IAT means intake air temp (air from outside) and ECT means engine coolant temp, and TV means throttle valve, what kind of relationship are we looking for, hoping to see or not see that will eventually tell us what?

Basically, are we trying to figure out if there is an issue with fuel trims, or a failing part (ie. hpfp, DV, camshaft)? Or is this mostly about ECU tuning/calibration settings that may be off and needs adjusting?


Or maybe another way to put it, what should I be telling my VAG mechanic to do on my car? What kind of tests or what should he be looking for? It would help me prepare better so that maybe I can be on the same page as him when he takes a look at my car and starts telling me all the news (good or bad). I'm just wondering if what he is thinking of is the same thing or completely different from what you are trying to find out? Does any of this have to do with RFD untuned ECU? I still think that is the #1 cause of my cold start issue and all I wish he could do is just open the intake manifold and see if RFD is done or not. If it is done, then can't he check the ECU to make sure it's been recalibrated to fix the cold start issue that RFD is known to have? If the tuning was done for RFD, that would tell me the problem is something else. If the there was no RFD tune done, then that would be my first order of action before wanting him to do any other work....that and maybe the easiest test which is just find a vacuum leak somewhere. He scares me when he says he wants to keep the car for 3 days.......I just want him to check if RFD is done or not, and if there is a vacuum leak.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

But you don't have to get so triggered over a newbie who just joined the forum. Obviously you've been here for a long time
so think about it from a first-timer's perspective. Try to be more welcoming and helpful rather than lambasting someone who was just asking a question.

Oh I'm trying ...........

I agree. Problem is, I don't understand what you just said. Is it a kind of scan I can log? If you could tell me which measuring blocks to add in my adv. measuring options
then maybe I can show you a log with alll the pertinent data you need.

Also, what exactly are we trying to figure out here in plain english? Now that I know that IAT means intake air temp (air from outside) and ECT means engine coolant temp, and TV means throttle valve, what kind of relationship are we looking for, hoping to see or not see that will eventually tell us what?

Basically, are we trying to figure out if there is an issue with fuel trims, or a failing part (ie. hpfp, DV, camshaft)? Or is this mostly about ECU tuning/calibration settings that may be off and needs adjusting?


Or maybe another way to put it, what should I be telling my VAG mechanic to do on my car? What kind of tests or what should he be looking for? It would help me prepare better so that maybe I can be on the same page as him when he takes a look at my car and starts telling me all the news (good or bad). I'm just wondering if what he is thinking of is the same thing or completely different from what you are trying to find out? Does any of this have to do with RFD untuned ECU? I still think that is the #1 cause of my cold start issue and all I wish he could do is just open the intake manifold and see if RFD is done or not. If it is done, then can't he check the ECU to make sure it's been recalibrated to fix the cold start issue that RFD is known to have? If the tuning was done for RFD, that would tell me the problem is something else. If the there was no RFD tune done, then that would be my first order of action before wanting him to do any other work....that and maybe the easiest test which is just find a vacuum leak somewhere. He scares me when he says he wants to keep the car for 3 days.......I just want him to check if RFD is done or not, and if there is a vacuum leak.

RTFB!

Why, you wouldn't know WTF you are looking at anyway, why perpetuate it?

Did you know you are not educated enough on this subject to convey what should be advised to the VAG mechanic and you seem to have a role reversal problem?

Have you ever considered taking the advice of the professional in your area & that has access to the car, instead of trying to instruct them with seeking ideas in a public forum?

You must have a really low opinion of repair shops in your area, however, how do you plan to engage or instruct when you don't know WTF you are even discussing, does that seem fair to do & to an alleged professional in his trade?

Find someone who is responsible with a reputation and if you think something is wrong, educate yourself and ask questions, sound like good advice?

I find your method of approach very insulting to all professionals in this industry and FYI if your next step is to discredited someone & before you even get started, simple don't go there!

Go take basic classes and read the VCDS manual + search videos, no reason to reinvent the wheel right?

Did you see all these videos yet?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Videos

Been here?

https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/logging.php

 

[Larry Manton]

Had this issue on a 99 2.0. Once running for 60 seconds would straighten out, be good all day, or days.
Turned out to be over pressure oil pump messing with lifters.

Try hooking a vac gauge on when running good, then remember it. Now when problem happens what is the vac?

Found mine as went instantly from 9 inches to, 20, motors just don't heal themselves. This may not be it but worth a shot. In the end replaced the pump even though bypass valve looked good. Also, what oil, and condition?

LARIMORE

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Had this issue on a 99 2.0. Once running for 60 seconds would straighten out, be good all day, or days.
Turned out to be over pressure oil pump messing with lifters.

Try hooking a vac gauge on when running good, then remember it. Now when problem happens what is the vac?

Found mine as went instantly from 9 inches to, 20, motors just don't heal themselves. This may not be it but worth a shot. In the end replaced the pump even though bypass valve looked good. Also, what oil, and condition?

LARIMORE

Almost makes you wonder if "someone" read the note in SSP and the FOD "whoever" shut off the oil regulation & to push up oil PSI to HIGH MAX & at all times?

Good point Larrymore!

 

[cornflakes]

Had this issue on a 99 2.0. Once running for 60 seconds would straighten out, be good all day, or days.
Turned out to be over pressure oil pump messing with lifters.

Try hooking a vac gauge on when running good, then remember it. Now when problem happens what is the vac?

Found mine as went instantly from 9 inches to, 20, motors just don't heal themselves. This may not be it but worth a shot. In the end replaced the pump even though bypass valve looked good. Also, what oil, and condition?

LARIMORE

Thanks for the share. That could be something I could look into more or suggest to the VAG mechanic.
Oil is Motul 300V Trophy 0w40. Always changed at the proper intervals. If you are asking about condition of oil meaning, I would need to send in a sample and get it analyzed, then I have no idea what the condition of the oil is (ie. if there are metal particulates found in the oil or oil filter).

 

[cornflakes]

Very interesting. I started reading a little bit about "over pressure oil pump messing with lifters".
Now I think I know what the VAG mechanic guy was saying when he mentioned one of the possible problems could be something inside (where he was pointing to the camshaft area).
I remember he looked at my odometer and saw it was only at 67K km and said to himself something like he was surprised that that was already a problem with only 67K km on it (if this is
what the problem is).

An article said that heavy viscosity oils promote good oil pressure in hotter weather but their flow rate may be insufficient in cold weather, especially during initial startup....this especially applies to overhead cam engines where the oil must travel farther vertically. Is my 2.0 TFSI (ea113) an overhead cam engine? I don't know. The article says that light viscosity oils can flow more readily in colder temperatures. If I'm not mistaken, my 0w-40 is a light viscosity oil so there should be no problem in this matter. I thought maybe I should change the oil every winter to a light viscosity one and then go back to a heavier one in the summer...but I think 0w-40 is a light viscosity isn't it? So that shouldn't be the reason.

I don't have a vacuum gauge (i think). Is the boost/vacuum gauge a different vacuum reading or is that a vacuum gauge as well? Doesn't VCDS have an option to monitor/log vacuum?

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Did you consider measuring the duty cycle to the oil pump control in VCDS & with a meter simultaneously to compare?

Sometimes the test results are shocking to compare mechanical tests to what controller blocks report or false report huh?

Time proves all, time proves all time stamp's for later to be revealed?

 

[cornflakes]

Did you consider measuring the duty cycle to the oil pump control in VCDS & with a meter simultaneously to compare?

Sometimes the test results are shocking to compare mechanical tests to what controller blocks report or false report huh?

Time proves all, time proves all time stamp's for later to be revealed?

Again, I agree fully. I know what you mean, but I don't have the tools and experience to do this myself sadly
When it comes to things I'm experienced at, I'm a really meticulous person and I would conduct very thorough tests
as you mentioned....mechanical + digital readings. But sadly, when it comes to cars, I'm not able to do the things
I want to do without the proper tools, a garage, experience/training, and worst of all, being a country I struggle to
communicate with anyone, and finding auto shops that sell the stuff I need is next to impossible. I wished there
were autozones, canadian tires, etc stores like that here.

These things just really make me want to take a 2 year course or something on auto mechanics and train to be a beginner licensed mechanic
so that I can just get over my "fears" of the unknown when it comes to cars.

I guess nowadays, I'm really starting to understand why (unless you are made of money) buying a cheap reliable car is a smarter route
to take than to get a sporty/tuned hot coupe etc. My other car is a 2001 Matiz....bought that for $900 bucks and it has been reliable
for 2+ years now driving it daily to work LOL. This VW scirocco R is a dream to drive but with so many little issues and the cost to just
maintain it truly is as Scotty Kilmer says about BMWs/Mercedes....an ENDLESS MONEY PIT! VW in Korea is an import car so it's very expensive
to own it here....it's considered like a BMW/Mercedes Benz level and parts, service, everything is expensive, hard to find, hard to do, ....argh.
I still think this VCDS software diagnostic tool is a great investment because of all the scans it can show me....if I can only learn how to maximize
its use.

But have a merry christmas all!

I will most likely just end up giving my car to that VAG mechanic in mid January for 3 days to let him do his inspection/testing whatever he's going to
do to the car that I'd have no way of knowing or seeing....and then wait for the news he gives me. At this point, all I can do is hope he's an honest
and good guy!

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Reading SSP and RTFB are a great start!

 

[cornflakes]

Reading SSP and RTFB are a great start!

Wow, thanks for the tip. I found the site with all the pdf files, but which one should I look at specifically for my car?
The only scirocco one I found was for the old sciroccos (70s-90s?) and it was written in german anyways.
I briefly took a look at a 2.0L TFSI pdf....i think that might be for me?

Also, the car was missing the manual book when I bought it and even if it was in the car, it would have been written out in a language I can't understand well.
I tried looking to buy the scirocco manual from North America but then found out they never had the car in North America......not sure where I could find the manual
in english.

ShopDap (Deutsche Auto Parts), a very good store for VW parts said they couldn't help me either on anything my car is a scirocco and they don't sell or have that car
in North America. Finding help in my particular situation is extremely difficult with all the barriers I have.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Erwin has it, did you look harder yet?

ROW

https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do

 

[cornflakes]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqef_Xpz7Og

Just wanted to note, I think this video explains things really well for me. I think this guy might be close to what problem I have.
My fuel pressure was fine at 50 (idle). So that should rule out any fuel system problem or fuel pressure regulator issue.
But if my short term fuel trim both bank 1 and bank 2 are in the negatives at idle, it points to possibly a maf sensor issue, and not leaky fuel injector since
he says if it was a leaky fuel injector, only 1 of the banks would be in negative and not both.

He also briefly talks about the catalytic converter monitor and how if it doesn't set, then it points to fuel trims and one possibility is a vacuum leak.

I'm going to run a couple more tests on vcds right now and see if I can learn anything more checking out lambda(?) blocks 032 and 033.

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Just wanted to note, I think this video explains things really well for me. I think this guy might be close to what problem I have.
My fuel pressure was fine at 50 (idle). So that should rule out any fuel system problem or fuel pressure regulator issue.
But if my short term fuel trim both bank 1 and bank 2 are in the negatives at idle, it points to possibly a maf sensor issue, and not leaky fuel injector since
he says if it was a leaky fuel injector, only 1 of the banks would be in negative and not both.

Did you know your car only has one bank?

You going to take a class yet?

 

[cornflakes]

Did you know your car only has one bank?

You going to take a class yet?

Thanks for letting me know. While I was doing the logging I noticed I couldn't find a bank 2
like the other vw had in the youtube video.

My short-term fuel trims at idle was hanging around -10 %

When I would accelerate it would sometimes go back to 0 and + but I saw it hang around -20 to -25 % during acceleration at times

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

Thanks for letting me know. While I was doing the logging I noticed I couldn't find a bank 2
like the other vw had in the youtube video.

My short-term fuel trims at idle was hanging around -10 %

When I would accelerate it would sometimes go back to 0 and + but I saw it hang around -20 to -25 % during acceleration at times

You are welcome!

Why is it what it is did you extricate yourself yet with further education?

Is it existential short term fuel trim or speculative?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/slate....998/09/bill-clinton-and-the-meaning-of-is.amp

 

[cornflakes]

Other some screenshots

http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg
http://u.cubeupload.com/cornflakes/SnapShot191228121623.jpg

Fuel pump electronics duty cycle 90%
Fan 1 control circuit duty cycle 87%

032 block longterm fuel trim was at -15.7% and then I cleared it and started fresh again

other pics just showing lambda control bank 1 sensor 1 short term fuel trim bouncing between
-27 to +7 or so during drive (between 1500-3000 rpm)

 

[Jack@European_Parts]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info
https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?18464-Super-Sticky-Index-here!-Great-info-and-rules-here

These links might be helpful

I think you are smarter than you portray yourself.