Replacement engine recommendations

   #1  

Djaylulu

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Hi guys and gals,
Looking to get recommendations.
I am thinking about replacing my 2000 VW Beetle 2.0 GLS engine.
I have an AEG engine, I want to find out what is involved in getting a reconditioned crated engine.
I need recommendations for suppliers that are reliable and honest so that I can get an idea of cost.
The internet is full of companies touting their wares and I dont want to get ripped off.

DJ
 
   #2  

Jack@European_Parts

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Buy from dealer new crated engine or roll dice on cheap used low mile one from dump?

Why did it fail, because it's rare this engine fails or is yours just clapped out?
 
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Djaylulu

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Buy from dealer new crated engine or roll dice on cheap used low mile one from dump?

Why did it fail, because it's rare this engine fails or is yours just clapped out?
115,000 miles. Burning oil.
I get misfires and the spark plugs need taking out and cleaning all the time.
I really have no idea what I am doing, I got told I need a rebuild, but because of the time the car will be off the road I feel that just getting the engine switched out would be a quicker process.
I am not getting a junkyard engine. If I get the work done it has to have warranties and no issues.
I have no access to any other vehicle, I cannot risk having sporadic breakdowns following the work.
I need to get recommendations on WHAT dealer can sell the engine and the experiences they have with them.
If anybody is in the Philadelphia area and knows of an honest (non dealer) VW specialist mechanic, who CAN use VCDS, please let me know.
It may not be as serious as I am being told, and a person who is a VW specialist or enthusiast rather than a general mechanic may have a better idea.
When we compression test its between 150 and 160 on all 4 cylinders, but spark plug on #3 gets fouled up very quickly and the check engine light comes on the car splutters and the exhaust smells foul.
I don't have enough knowledge or capability to do the repairs or tests myself and live in a municipality, where carrying out anything other than emergency auto repairs on the street or private property accessible from the street is illegal and heavily enforced.
I am getting really frustrated.
I earn very little because I work part time so that I can dedicate my energy to my many foster children, and I need my car!
It's not like I bought some old vehicle, I had it 19 years from new and used it in 3 different countries.
I would rather fit a new engine than deal with unreliability.
The only reason I feel that the engine needs replacing is because I am told that AEG engines are notorious for failing this way.
Maybe some of you mechanically minded people can tell me better.
DJ
 
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Zenerdiode

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I feel for you. It's such a shame you can't find a local, honest workshop that would put a bit of time in to diagnose your problem. It feels to me that about an hour of good diagnostic work would pin-point what's going on. From what you've already said; (dry?) compression looks good and balanced, so there's really only two other ways oil is getting in to Cyl. 3. Valve stem oil seals or the PCV valve. Ok, the oil control rings may be damaged; but unlikely if good oil and good service intervals have been met.

Are you sure the contaminent is oil? Describe the deposit, please. (Wet, dry, colour etc.)

Please also post an Auto-Scan.
 
   #5  

Jack@European_Parts

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/192810677662

Hey what's this link do above?

Hey have you tried lowering the engine oil level and running a heavier oil?

Did you take the breather line at intake boot from VC and send it to a catch can or bottom of air box yet or consider a Mann Hummel pro vent?
 
   #6  

Jack@European_Parts

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OP please remove intake boot without cleaning anything and post a picture of flap at TV and inside the boot, is it saturated with oil?
 
   #7  

Djaylulu

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I feel for you. It's such a shame you can't find a local, honest workshop that would put a bit of time in to diagnose your problem. It feels to me that about an hour of good diagnostic work would pin-point what's going on. From what you've already said; (dry?) compression looks good and balanced, so there's really only two other ways oil is getting in to Cyl. 3. Valve stem oil seals or the PCV valve. Ok, the oil control rings may be damaged; but unlikely if good oil and good service intervals have been met.

Are you sure the contaminent is oil? Describe the deposit, please. (Wet, dry, colour etc.)

Please also post an Auto-Scan.
The coating on the spark plugs is black and oily. Its in all cylinders not just #3, that one just worse than the others.
I get a sulfur kind of smell from the exhaust.
Explain the process of renewing/replacing: Valve stem oil seals, PCV valve, oil control rings.
I am unable to do a scan until daylight so I post tomorrow.
 
   #8  

Djaylulu

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/192810677662

Hey what's this link do above?

Hey have you tried lowering the engine oil level and running a heavier oil?

Did you take the breather line at intake boot from VC and send it to a catch can or bottom of air box yet or consider a Mann Hummel pro vent?
I am not sure how to do that.
I use Castrol SAE 10W-30, it burns cleanly - unlike synthetic oils that cause fouling of the spark plugs around 50 - 100 miles, it takes around 800 - 900 before I have to clean them.
5 years ago it was 10,000 miles, 2 years ago 2,000 miles, and more recently down to under 1,000.
You would have to explain to me what to take off and photograph.
I dont know what I am looking at.
 
   #9  

Jack@European_Parts

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I am not sure how to do that.
I use Castrol SAE 10W-30, it burns cleanly - unlike synthetic oils that cause fouling of the spark plugs around 50 - 100 miles, it takes around 800 - 900 before I have to clean them.
5 years ago it was 10,000 miles, 2 years ago 2,000 miles, and more recently down to under 1,000.
You would have to explain to me what to take off and photograph.
I dont know what I am looking at
RTFB



When you remove the intake boot after MAF to TV & with throttle cable since AEG, what is the oil content?

Photo the inside of throttle plate, intake boot and upper half of air box please, can you do that?

If you remove the air box upper side is oil dripping on air filter and contained in MAF with residue?


PICTURES!

Dont you know how to drain oil and add straight weight oil at a lower level?

How many quarts of oil to you install in your engine after dong an oil change?

Do you run the extended size filter to increase capacity of sump total?

Did you read this yet?

https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com...ummel/kurbelgehauseentlueftung/ProVent_en.pdf

Ever try these Nazi blends?

 
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Djaylulu

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RTFB



When you remove the intake boot after MAF to TV & with throttle cable since AEG, what is the oil content?

Photo the inside of throttle plate, intake boot and upper half of air box please, can you do that?

If you remove the air box upper side is oil dripping on air filter and contained in MAF with residue?


PICTURES!

Dont you know how to drain oil and add straight weight oil at a lower level?

How many quarts of oil to you install in your engine after dong an oil change?

Do you run the extended size filter to increase capacity of sump total?

Did you read this yet?

https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com...ummel/kurbelgehauseentlueftung/ProVent_en.pdf

Ever try these Nazi blends?

I can't do any of that stuff myself.
I don't have the tools or equipment to do my own maintenance, the mechanic shop puts in the oil and gives me some to top up with.
The filter is the basic one that autozone sells.
My job contract prohibits me from handling certain chemicals or doing rough work such as mechanics, building with cement, or using solvents and paints, anything that may cause my skin to harden, roughen, or appear dirty.
So I am limited in what I can do on the car myself.
I will take a look at the air filter for residue tomorrow.
DJ
 
   #14  

Jack@European_Parts

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Did you know there is no EGR valve in your vehicle, but what you refer to is a KOMBI valve for air pump of secondary air injection?

This is used to blow air into exhaust & pre catalyst to mix with rich fuel mixture during warm up and aid in lighting off the exothermic reaction which is needed for the CAT to function as an AECD to convert GHG gasses & hence the catalytic converter process, did you know that?

So did oil consumption stop by replacing head, I almost believe it won't?
 
   #15  

Djaylulu

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Did you know there is no EGR valve in your vehicle, but what you refer to is a KOMBI valve for air pump of secondary air injection?

This is used to blow air into exhaust & pre catalyst to mix with rich fuel mixture during warm up and aid in lighting off the exothermic reaction which is needed for the CAT to function as an AECD to convert GHG gasses & hence the catalytic converter process, did you know that?

So did oil consumption stop by replacing head, I almost believe it won't?
I do not know if the oil consumption stopped yet, I only drove 57 miles.
Yes I knew about the Kombi Valve its part# 06A 131 102 H.
When I first got the car I used it in England, where the New Beetle was unavailable.
The Kombi valve developed a fault and had to be replaced, but was unavailable in Europe.
The similar European vehicles at the time were Passatt, Golf, and Polo, none of which used that part.
We eventually got it from Canada.
 
   #19  

Jack@European_Parts

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"Pistons" Not just rings are "SMOKED" don't re-use them!

This type of sludge in ring lands is from engine sump over filling!

The lower skirt indicates too much slap now.

Hone performed so far is too fine and deck prep are still incomplete and inadequate!

Coolant is also wrong type........

Permitting coolant to drip or make way to crank rod journals while further showing you failed to drain block of coolant is very lazy and sloppy type work ethic!

Nice bore scratch from careless piston/rod removal!

This is not to beat you up but hopefully make you or whoever is doing this for you to get their shit together.
 
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   #20  

Djaylulu

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I took everything out. We only just started today, I looked at the Haynes manual and did not see any direction on draining the coolant. I just took everything apart as the manual directed.
With some advice from the owner of the shop, who is going to take the block out of the car and clean/hone it.
No honing has been done yet, the cylinders were cleaned that's all. They are quite smooth and had no dirty deposits or scratches, but being the first time I have seen an engine inside and having no mechanical experience whatsoever I don't know what I am looking at where damage is concerned.
We got compression of: 150 #1, 160 #2, 160 #3, and 160 on #4. The fuel injectors for #2 and #4 were badly damaged, not just the seals but the component itself looked burned and cracked.
Surprisingly enough the car actually drove just fine, it just needed a lot of oil! It was cheaper to buy an assembled fuel injector rail than 2 separate injectors.
I would post the VCDS data readings on fuel mix, but I left the computer at the workshop for the guy, he did try and explain about fuel going into the air intake but he had another customer and said customer is paying more than I am!
I ordered this: https://www.partsplaceinc.com/vw-2-0l-piston-set-standard-19529.html
The rods were another $149 but not listed on the site.

Code:
Monday,16,December,2019,09:26:04:31315
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20190930 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: 3VWCC21C4YM482633   License Plate: 
Mileage: 188510km-117134mi   Repair Order: pre engine rebuild 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1C - VW New Beetle (1998 > 2010)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 29 35 37 39 46 54 56 65 75
 
   Mileage: 188510km-117134miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
   Part No: 06A 906 018 JN
   Component: 2.0l R4/2V  MOTR HS V01  
   Coding: 00031
   Shop #: WSC 01029  
   VCID: 77F3EF5655B717F796-4B18

3 Faults Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System 
            P0411 - 35-00 - Incorrect Flow Detected
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 
            P0300 - 35-00 - 
16685 - Cylinder 1 
            P0301 - 35-00 - Misfire Detected
Readiness: 0010 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
   Component: ABS     20 IE CAN  0001  
   Coding: 03504
   Shop #: WSC 00066  
   VCID: 3E7D3A723A0DE6BF95-4B00

1 Fault Found:
01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 
            16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
   Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
   Component: 06 AIRBAG VW5       0004  
   Coding: 12342
   Shop #: WSC 00066  
   VCID: 356F255E0F3B25E744-4B18

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 1C0-920-xx0.lbl
   Part No: 1C0 920 901 C
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V07  
   Coding: 03202
   Shop #: WSC 00050  
   VCID: 1C39D0FA8CD194AF5B-4B18

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: Ident
   Component: Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0Y2252038  
   Ident.-Nr. Wegfahrs.:VWZ5Z0Y2252038

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
   Part No: 6N0 909 901 
   Component: Gateway K<->CAN    V072  
   Coding: 00006
   Shop #: WSC 00066  
   VCID: 70E1D44A30D940CF57-4B18

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
   Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
   Component: 5X Zentral-SG Komf. 0001  
   Coding: 00256
   Shop #: WSC 00066  
   VCID: 060D9292225D7E7F9D-4B18

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J2959802C
   Component: 5X Tırsteuerger. FS0002r  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J2959801D
   Component: 5X Tırsteuerger. BF0002r  

4 Faults Found:
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221) 
            54-00 - Incorrectly Equipped
01179 - Incorrect Key Programming 
            35-00 - -
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4) 
            35-00 - -
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5) 
            35-00 - -

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 03:35)--------------------------
 
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