Central Electrics Gremlins

   #1  

Tbez

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Hi, I've got an '05 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t that had previously gotten rather saturated from numerous leaks. I've since learned that old Audi's and VW's leak like old fishing boats.. Still, after removing most of the interior to find and fix the leaks and dry everything out I managed to get it all back together again with nary a problem. I did not remove any of the upper part of the dash, control modules or instrument cluster. A few weeks ago my headlights started acting funny and would not turn off. Some troubleshooting and these forums led me to the "Body Control Module" which I replaced with a used part from eBay. That action appears to have opened up a whole galactic sized bag of worms. My headlights do function correctly now but since then I've had numerous gremlins materialize. For starters I have some sort of alarm (tamper alarm?) going off randomly and the only thing I can do to make it stop is to disconnect the battery. My keys also became dissociated with the car, speedometer has stopped working, ABS light is on, Airbag fault is on - then off for awhile - then on again and a scan shows that my "Central Electrics" have the wrong VIN. I made the investment in a Ross-Tech VCDS and have managed to get the keys reacquainted with the car, cleared out numerous false-alarms stopped the blinkers from flashing continuously (did I mention that symptom?). However, no matter how many times I enter the value "46992" in the Central Electrics adaption to force the unit to "learn" the VIN I can't seem to sort that out. The car basically isn't drivable because of the random alarm going off at real inopportune times. I'm not a mechanic and am way out of my element here. Can anyone please, please, please point me in the right direction?

Code:
Saturday,10,August,2019,15:17:40:23170
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.1.0 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4
Data version: 20190529 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAULC68E05A114733   License Plate: 


Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
          67 69 75 76 77
 
VIN: WAULC68E05A114733   Mileage: 274950km-170846miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
   Part No SW: 8E0 909 518 BC    HW: 8E0 909 018 A
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0020  
   Revision: 00000000    Serial number: AUZ6Z0D0371349
   Coding: 0016751
   Shop #: WSC 11111 111 45799
   VCID: 72BDDAB038BA89B7CCD-5160

1 Fault Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            P1649 - 008 - Missing Message from ABS Controller
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 927 156 AA
   Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 0505  
   Coding: 0001002
   Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
   VCID: 6D87C9CC2184564F11F-5160

1 Fault Found:
17087 - Brake Switch (F) 
            P0703 - 003 - Electrical Malfunction

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 820 043 AD
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1424  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 06325  
   VCID: 6393AFF4F240103FB7B-513C

1 Fault Found:
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
   Component: int. Lastmodul  USA 0305  
   Coding: 00003
   Shop #: WSC 11111  
   VCID: 34311CA8072EC7871E1-4B00

3 Faults Found:
01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X) 
            57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes
01794 - Control Module - Incorrect Chassis (VIN) Number 
            35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 655 K
   Component: Airbag 8.4EP        1001  
   Coding: 0010607
   Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
   VCID: 3FDB43843B6814DFF33-5184

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenks·ulenmodul     0611  
   Coding: 01041
   Shop #: WSC 11111  
   VCID: 3E253E8039621DD7F85-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 920 950 P
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42  
   Coding: 01231
   Shop #: WSC 03131  
   VCID: 363526A01152D597205-5160
   WAULC68E05A114733     AUZ6Z0D0371349

1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module 
            49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
   Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortger·t T7B    1612  
   Coding: 11788
   Shop #: WSC 06325  
   VCID: 72BDDAB03DBA89B7CCD-4B00

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
   Component: Tırsteuer.FS BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
   Component: Tırsteuer.BF BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
   Component: Tırsteuer.HL BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
   Component: Tırsteuer.HR BRM 0205  

No fault code found.

End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:56, VBatt start/end: 13.6V/13.5V)-----------
 
   #2  

MasterTommy

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Well for starters you can not just swap out a control unit, any control unit for that matter. But you figured that out.

I would reconnect the old control unit and see if VCDS can talk to it. If it does (it will show up in the autoscan), verify if the SW part number is the same between old and new BCM, and save the auto-scan. Also make an adaptation channel map (main screen > applications > controller channel map > tick ‘adaptations’ and under output file ‘CSV’.

After that, reconnect your new BCM. Check the SW part number and if its the same, look up the scan with the old BCM and copy the coding from the old BCM and paste that into the new BCM (control units > module 09 > coding and paste it in the new coding field. That should solve most issues.

Next you can also make an adaptation channel map of your new BCM and compare the values between old and new.

If your old BCM does not communicate with VCDS (which is very possible after water damage), we will have to reconstruct the coding based on how your car is equipped. But lets see if the easy way works first.

Sorry for any typos, typed this on my phone.
 
   #3  

Tbez

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MasterTommy, first of all my humble thanks for your thoughtful and insightful response. I've done as you suggested and though the part numbers did not line up I still gave it a go (the original unit is an "F" revision while the used replacement is an "E" revision). A funny thing happened.. I wasn't able to match the channels 100% because channels 3 & 4 on the replacement unit show as "unavailable" in the channel map while they have values of "30" and "4" respectively in the original BCM. That said, after disconnecting, running and autoscan etc., then reconnecting the replacement BCM and running an autoscan the VIN mismatch errors have now disappeared. Hoorah! I've compared the scans of the original BCM and replacement BCM line by line and other than a few extra errors pertaining to the headlights in the original they at least now share all of the same fault messages. I guess that's progress?? I also dug into the "Alarm Horn (H12)" error reporting on both scans afterwords and it seems that the NI-MH batteries in those alarms are known to fail after 10 years or so. I have pulled that sucker out so that it least stops annoying the neighbors. I've got a host of other faults present in the scan and my brake lights are on constantly but I'm not certain where the scan data is pointing me to next. Is there something you would advice a novice to look into or is this the point where you say "get the car to knowledgable mechanic before you break something worse." Below is the current scan:

Code:
Monday,12,August,2019,17:32:21:23170
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.1.0 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4
Data version: 20190529 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAULC68E05A114733   License Plate: TONY A4
Mileage: 274950km-170846mi   Repair Order: New BCM



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
          67 69 75 76 77
 
VIN: WAULC68E05A114733   Mileage: 274950km-170846miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
   Part No SW: 8E0 909 518 BC    HW: 8E0 909 018 A
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0020  
   Revision: 00000000    Serial number: AUZ6Z0D0371349
   Coding: 0016751
   Shop #: WSC 11111 111 45799
   VCID: 72BDDAB038BA89B7CCD-5160

3 Faults Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            P1649 - 008 - Missing Message from ABS Controller
16955 - Brake Switch (F) 
            P0571 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30 
            P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 927 156 AA
   Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 0505  
   Coding: 0001002
   Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
   VCID: 6D87C9CC2184564F11F-5160

1 Fault Found:
17087 - Brake Switch (F) 
            P0703 - 003 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 820 043 AD
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1424  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 06325  
   VCID: 6393AFF4F240103FB7B-513C

1 Fault Found:
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
   Component: int. Lastmodul  USA 0305  
   Coding: 00003
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 34311CA8072EC7871E1-4B00

2 Faults Found:
01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X) 
            57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus 
            79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 655 K
   Component: Airbag 8.4EP        1001  
   Coding: 0010607
   Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
   VCID: 3FDB43843B6814DFF33-5184

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenks·ulenmodul     0611  
   Coding: 01041
   Shop #: WSC 11111  
   VCID: 3E253E8039621DD7F85-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 920 950 P
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42  
   Coding: 01231
   Shop #: WSC 03131  
   VCID: 363526A01152D597205-5160
   WAULC68E05A114733     AUZ6Z0D0371349

2 Faults Found:
01176 - Key 
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module 
            49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
   Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortger·t T7B    1612  
   Coding: 11788
   Shop #: WSC 06325  
   VCID: 72BDDAB03DBA89B7CCD-4B00

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
   Component: Tırsteuer.FS BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
   Component: Tırsteuer.BF BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
   Component: Tırsteuer.HL BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
   Component: Tırsteuer.HR BRM 0205  

1 Fault Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

End----(Elapsed Time: 05:58, VBatt start/end: 11.6V/11.6V. VIgn 11.5V)-----
 
   #4  

Jef

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If you play the used parts game, you need to play by the rules or you gonna have a bad time! :eek:
https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?1997-Can-I-go-with-used-parts-Maybe

As per PL24, this VIN uses part number 8E0-907-279-F. Part number 8E0-907-279-E has been superseded to 8E0-907-279-F. Now keep in mind that means that "E" can be replaced with "F", but doesn't mean "F" can be replaced with "E", it isn't always a 2 way street with these kinds of things. So I can't say with any degree of confidence the "E" is acceptable or not... I'd give it a definite maybe. :confused:

ABS and powertrain codes. So the ABS module is talking to VCDS, it does this over a "K-Line", the phone line that control modules use to talk to a scan tool. Control modules do not use the K-Line to talk to each other. I somewhat suspect there might be an issue with the ABS on the line of communication it would use to talk to other control modules like the ECM or Instrument Cluster.

Take a look at 01-08-125 and see what the ABS reports. Click here for instructions.

0 = no communication to that module
1 = communication to that module

I'm going to guess the ABS is a big fat 0. You might see about wiggle testing the wiring harness to see if that helps, or unplugging/plugging the ABS module up a few times to clean the contacts.
 
   #5  

DrPeter

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MasterTommy, first of all my humble thanks for your thoughtful and insightful response. I've done as you suggested and though the part numbers did not line up I still gave it a go (the original unit is an "F" revision while the used replacement is an "E" revision). A funny thing happened.. I wasn't able to match the channels 100% because channels 3 & 4 on the replacement unit show as "unavailable" in the channel map while they have values of "30" and "4" respectively in the original BCM. That said, after disconnecting, running and autoscan etc., then reconnecting the replacement BCM and running an autoscan the VIN mismatch errors have now disappeared. Hoorah! I've compared the scans of the original BCM and replacement BCM line by line and other than a few extra errors pertaining to the headlights in the original they at least now share all of the same fault messages. I guess that's progress?? I also dug into the "Alarm Horn (H12)" error reporting on both scans afterwords and it seems that the NI-MH batteries in those alarms are known to fail after 10 years or so. I have pulled that sucker out so that it least stops annoying the neighbors. I've got a host of other faults present in the scan and my brake lights are on constantly but I'm not certain where the scan data is pointing me to next. Is there something you would advice a novice to look into or is this the point where you say "get the car to knowledgable mechanic before you break something worse." Below is the current scan:

Hi there,

I answered your email that you sent to our support at Ross-Tech about the vehicle (WAULC68E05A114733), so instead of replying back to that email I just sent, lets keep the conversation here in the Ross-Tech forum, that way others can benefit from what we discuss and learn.

Thank you,

Peter
Technical Support
Ross-Tech.com

ref: E?ID=594729
 
   #6  

Tbez

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And right you are sir! Hit the mail squarely on the head. Big fat "0" indeed from the ABS controller. So, I guess the million dollar question is: Do I keep on going or cut my losses and learn how to "part-out" a car? With as much as I've put into it in the last year that's the only way I can recoup my money. I'm asking in ernest here and interested in the professional opinions of those of you who are willing to offer one up. In your informed opinions, am I facing one major expense after another here (like that airbag fault that keeps rearing it's ugly head, or the electrical/power faults) or is fixing the ABS likely that last of the big stuff? If this car was decorating your driveway what would you do?
 
   #7  

DrPeter

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And right you are sir! Hit the mail squarely on the head. Big fat "0" indeed from the ABS controller. So, I guess the million dollar question is: Do I keep on going or cut my losses and learn how to "part-out" a car? With as much as I've put into it in the last year that's the only way I can recoup my money. I'm asking in ernest here and interested in the professional opinions of those of you who are willing to offer one up. In your informed opinions, am I facing one major expense after another here (like that airbag fault that keeps rearing it's ugly head, or the electrical/power faults) or is fixing the ABS likely that last of the big stuff? If this car was decorating your driveway what would you do?

This may help... and I would look at it this way:

- Can you and do you want to do all the work on the vehicle?
- Can you buy/obtain all parts (new or used), cheap enough so it makes economical sense to keep the vehicle?
- Lastly, do you really like/want the vehicle, as in, if you sold it, would be able to forgive yourself and you would have regrets and loose sleep?

- If the answer is 'Yes' to all three, then keep it.
- If you answered 'No' to one question, then that maybe a deal killer.. unless you can change that 'No' to a 'Yes' without a lot of time and $$$.
- If you answered 'No' to two - sell. And if you answered 'No' to all three questions, Run!

But, here is something else to consider, Do you have your eye on another vehicle that you would rather spend your time and money on? Like an Audi RS3 :D

If so,then pursue that passion and move on, life is short so enjoy it, but do not go crazy!

Helpful hints:
- Never pay retail prices!
- Buy true OEM or high quality parts, used are okay if the part numbers are the latest/newest and the part has a warranty or can be exchanged
- Use VCDS and the Official Factory wiring diagrams/repair manuals
- and just know we are here to help.


Have fun,

drpeter
 
   #8  

MasterTommy

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I would also like to say a proper diagnostic procedure is important. Except for very cheap or ‘i have a working one laying around’ electronic parts, replacing electronic parts is never part of a proper diagnosis, but rather the result. First you confirm a control module is faulty, then you replace the part with the correct part. If there is a sensor error and replacing the sensor (already deviating there) didnt solve it ‘so it must be the control unit’, any electronic fault suddenly has the potential to result in four digit ‘repair’ costs. There is almost no situation where you cannot make very accurate repair estimates without spending anything and by just using some basic electronic test equipment.
 
   #9  

Tbez

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Thank you drpeter for the sound advice and solid philosophy. I'm kind of at the tipping point on the car now financially. If I could, as MasterTommy sagely suggests, arrive at a conclude diagnosis that suggests this would be the last "big" problem I'm facing for awhile it would make spending the money more palatable. I'm just not certain I possess the knowledge to do so and the minute I hand the job over to a paid professional it will likely put me upside down thrice over on this car. I'm not emotionally attached to it per se' but I'm in a season of life where I don't have many nice things and it'll kind of hurt to let it go. For the last several years prior to getting this car I've had to drive the kind of junkie jalopies that your kids are embarrassed to be seen in. I guess I'm not real anxious to go back to that. It'll be a difficult decision for sure.
 
   #10  

Jack@European_Parts

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Thank you drpeter for the sound advice and solid philosophy. I'm kind of at the tipping point on the car now financially. If I could, as MasterTommy sagely suggests, arrive at a conclude diagnosis that suggests this would be the last "big" problem I'm facing for awhile it would make spending the money more palatable. I'm just not certain I possess the knowledge to do so and the minute I hand the job over to a paid professional it will likely put me upside down thrice over on this car. I'm not emotionally attached to it per se' but I'm in a season of life where I don't have many nice things and it'll kind of hurt to let it go. For the last several years prior to getting this car I've had to drive the kind of junkie jalopies that your kids are embarrassed to be seen in. I guess I'm not real anxious to go back to that. It'll be a difficult decision for sure.
Where is your sense of adventure, watch some YouTube/RTFB........... Come on, apply yourself already, keep things pure and JPPSG

Diagnostic path you been on must be sterilized............The old days are just that, they are over & in error!

If you want to play CARBS and POINTS or MAGS go buy an old car and trust me it isn't going to be cheaper than this POS!

https://www.nbcsports.com/video/1967-chevrolet-chevelle-ss-sells-28500-mecum-auctions

 
   #11  

Jef

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In my drunken state, I kind of messed up like the dog does to my carpet here in my basement office every damn morning now.... :cry: Your ABS module is dead, I had incorrectly stated it talks VCDS, but it does not. At least I was correct about the ECM giving it a big fat 0.

Get a test light and verify you have good power and grounds for the ABS module. /2 /6 and /23 are powers. /1 and /5 are grounds. /11 is data for scan tool. If powers/grounds/data are in place then you have a bad module. These ABS modules can be swapped out without cracking open the system. Pull the left front fender liner out and you can remove the ABS brain from the valve block, pretty easy to do. The only "tricky" part I would say is... if you go with a used part, it must be a matching part number to the original... and since the original is dead, it is a touch difficult to verify just what part number that would be.
 
   #12  

Tbez

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Well, I've downloaded the erWin manuals that I'd never heard of till a week ago. Now if I only knew what to do with them... I've taken a look at the brakes manual (helpful) and the wiring manual (less helpful as it has no index or TOC and is about a million pages long). To MasterTommy's point, it'd be darn good to make a conclusive and comprehensive diagnosis so that I could get at least a good "guesstimate" as to the end-game cost for repairs. I just haven't a clue where to start. Another thread suggested perhaps a fuse under the ECU cover had blown but darn me if I could find the thing in the wiring manual. Where would you knowledgable and experienced types start in order to build a comprehensive estimate?
 
   #13  

Tbez

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In my drunken state, I kind of messed up like the dog does to my carpet here in my basement office every damn morning now.... :cry: Your ABS module is dead, I had incorrectly stated it talks VCDS, but it does not. At least I was correct about the ECM giving it a big fat 0.

Get a test light and verify you have good power and grounds for the ABS module. /2 /6 and /23 are powers. /1 and /5 are grounds. /11 is data for scan tool. If powers/grounds/data are in place then you have a bad module. These ABS modules can be swapped out without cracking open the system. Pull the left front fender liner out and you can remove the ABS brain from the valve block, pretty easy to do. The only "tricky" part I would say is... if you go with a used part, it must be a matching part number to the original... and since the original is dead, it is a touch difficult to verify just what part number that would be.
Thanks Jef, we could compare bad canines but trust me, that's one thing I'd win in this forum. So ABS dead, Check. I'm kind of trying to figure out what else might be dead or in need of repair also. I can't afford to keep wrenching on this thing every time I get a moment off. I presume the pin-outs you've stated above are on the connector attached to the ABS control module correct? Could I not just verify those readings with a multimeter rather than rigging up a light? Regarding the part number issue, is it not the same for new or used? I have to verify the exact part number either way, yes/no?
 
   #14  

Tbez

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Hi Jef,

Here are my readings:

Pin 2 = 12 Volts / Pin 6 = 12 Volts / Pin 23 = 0 Volts / Pin 11 = 12 Volts (not sure if that matters..) Pins 1 & 5 are good grounds.

So how important is pin 23 and its voltage? I ask because I've got "0" volts on pin 23. I am unable to find the exact pin-out for J104 (I think its J104, but the connector attached to the ABS Control Module) nor can I find an actual schematic or pin by pin wiring diagram. The next obvious question is what supplies this voltage to pin 23 and where does it originate from, route through, etc. I've emailed the erwin folks for a little guidance on the manuals but in the meantime thought I'd share my findings with you in hopes you'd share a bit more insight with me.

Thanks.
 
   #15  

Jef

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/23, 1.0mm² sw/br gets power from fuse S7 which looks to be a 10A fuse.... so maybe this just needs fuse S7 to be replaced.

I would suggest you purchase the cheapest erwin.audi.com package and print-to-PDF everything, including wiring diagrams. If you are unsure how to read factory wiring diagrams, I've got you covered:

https://www.ross-tech.com/training/
 
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   #16  

Tbez

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Yep, you do! Found it in the wiring manual with a little instruction.. Just went out with a flashlight and pulled it, fuse is indeed blown. Now why it blew is the next question. It's gonna kill me to have to wait until after work tomorrow to swap it out and see what happens but at least its progress! I'll update after I test tomorrow.
 
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   #17  

Jef

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Unplug the ABS module then replace the fuse again... if it pops, wiring. If not, looks like an ABS module issue.
 
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   #18  

Tbez

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Well, I replaced the fuse, ran an autoscan, cleared the faults, drove the car around then ran another scan. So far the fuse has not blown again. :thumbs: What's even more exciting is that several other errors have cleared as well and my speedometer is working again. Whoo!! I do still have a lingering issue with the license plate light which I believe to be an electrical or wiring problem (hasn't worked since I've owned the car) and I've got an airbag fault that seems to be intermittent which has also been the case since I've owned the car. I'll call those my "known issues". Most intriguing however is the new fault I'm seeing which is a "steering angle sensor" and I notice that is also in the ABS module. So perhaps that unit may be defunct after all or I have more troubleshooting to do. I'm including the latest scan below. From a forum "best practice" standpoint should I create a new post for this issue or continue on in this thread? Not sure how you guys like to organize such things but do want to be a good citizen of the community so to speak. Much thanks for all your help thus far.

Code:
Thursday,15,August,2019,18:00:14:23170
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.1.0 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4
Data version: 20190529 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAULC68E05A114733   License Plate: TONY A4
Mileage: 274950km-170846mi   Repair Order: new fuse after clearing dtc



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
          67 69 75 76 77
 
VIN: WAULC68E05A114733   Mileage: 274950km-170846miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
   Part No SW: 8E0 909 518 BC    HW: 8E0 909 018 A
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0020  
   Revision: 00000000    Serial number: AUZ6Z0D0371349
   Coding: 0016751
   Shop #: WSC 11111 111 45799
   VCID: 72BDDAB038BA89B7CCD-5160

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0010 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans        Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 927 156 AA
   Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 0505  
   Coding: 0001002
   Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
   VCID: 6D87C9CC2184564F11F-5160

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8E0-614-517.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 614 517 A
   Component: ABS/ESP allrad      4529  
   Coding: 04277
   Shop #: WSC 06435  
   VCID: 2615F6E0C1F2A517905-51A8

3 Faults Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) 
            37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
            35-00 - -
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) 
            27-00 - Implausible Signal

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 820 043 AD
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1424  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 06325  
   VCID: 6393AFF4F240103FB7B-513C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
   Component: int. Lastmodul  USA 0305  
   Coding: 00003
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 34311CA8072EC7871E1-4B00

1 Fault Found:
01504 - Bulb for License-Plate Light (X) 
            57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 655 K
   Component: Airbag 8.4EP        1001  
   Coding: 0010607
   Shop #: WSC 06325 000 00000
   VCID: 3FDB43843B6814DFF33-5184

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenks·ulenmodul     0611  
   Coding: 01041
   Shop #: WSC 11111  
   VCID: 3E253E8039621DD7F85-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 920 950 P
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42  
   Coding: 01231
   Shop #: WSC 03131  
   VCID: 363526A01152D597205-5160
   WAULC68E05A114733     AUZ6Z0D0371349

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
   Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortger·t T7B    1612  
   Coding: 11788
   Shop #: WSC 06325  
   VCID: 72BDDAB03DBA89B7CCD-4B00

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
   Component: Tırsteuer.FS BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
   Component: Tırsteuer.BF BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
   Component: Tırsteuer.HL BRM 0205  

   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
   Component: Tırsteuer.HR BRM 0205  

No fault code found.

End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:51, VBatt start/end: 12.4V/12.3V)-----------
 
   #19  

Tbez

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Thank you!!

So I've taken your collective and well stated counsel and have been making progress bit by bit with much - much help from Jef at Ross-Tech. I wanted to say thanks to all of you in this incredibly helpful community. I'm blown away every single day by the kindness and generosity extended by the people in this forum. My car isn't 100% yet - quite a ways to go for that - but now I actually believe I can get it there with your help. I am indebted to you all. Thanks again.
 
   #20  

Jef

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3 Faults Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
Try doing the Steering Angle Sensor (G85) Calibration.

The 01826, in most cases, doing some figure 8s in a parking lot, then drive down the road a mile or 1, more figure 8s, then drive back and that code can be cleared out.
 
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