Dynamic Chassis Control Retrofit

   #61  

darkchina811

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will try after dinner, thanks!
 
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Good, let me know how it goes.:thumbs:
 
   #63  

darkchina811

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34/2C was accepted. cheers man :)
 
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Excellent. Now you just need to get the missing parts for the DCC.

I have everything else except the struts. The breaker maybe doesn’t know how to use the system as he still hasn’t been able to change my query so that I could make the purchase.
Luckily I found another breaker with the correct parts except the fronts have different springs attached which I need to change. It’s a shame because the ones I tried to buy initially would have everything correct.
 
   #65  

darkchina811

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I found the parts for around € 280, brand new, not OEM but equivalent. the thing is I go to work on the 11th and I will be back in May. even if I buy now I cannot be sure they will ship on monday, and a packet from Germany can take 2-3 days. it will have to wait for the summer.
 
   #66  

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I’m probably have to do the same even I get the parts earlier. It’s sub zero temps here so not so nice to do installation :)
 
   #67  

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I am now looking into recoding the ABS because of new discs, I am checking with the excel file provided by Somnus and I am a little confused. it's byte 4 and byte 17 should be the inverse. as of now I have the same value of 24 into both, so I am not following this "inverse" thing. should I put 34 in both?
Agreed, I could have worded that section better.

I updated the spreadsheet to (hopefully) make it easier in the future.

Also, you guys are making me want to swap the suspension in my GTI :D
 
   #68  

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Somnus said:
Also, you guys are making me want to swap the suspension in my GTI :D
go for it, you have the correct bearings/housings for sure since it's GTI.

also, I still find confusing when I read "mirror the byte". I would say "convert the hex value to binary, read it backwards and convert to hex again".
 
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^ Yep. It's easier to use the long coding helper in VCDS. Just paste the coding into that and you can modify the binary value for the byte directly. No need to convert it to hex in between inverting it.

I'm always using that to modify the coding. I never modify the hex values. Always certain bit inside the byte.
 
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All the parts acquired. Now just waiting for a bit warmer weather and some time.

Managed to get the parts from exactly same car as mine so no need to change springs etc. Just out with the old, in with the new.

And those thinking about the retrofit, get a DCC retrofit wiring set from aliexpress. VERY VERY good. They've thought everything. I already have the rear height sensor and they're connected to headlight control module. Ali wiring set has blank connector where you insert the three wires for rear height sensor that you remove from the range control module. No need to cut, solder and shrinkwrap.
 
   #71  

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I have some experience in electrical/industrial wiring and I am sure when I say even the chinese wiring is overpriced. with that being said, it is definitely the best option for anybody who doesn't have the tools or simply doesn't want to bother.
 
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I have as well and I still didn’t want to bother with this. And maybe it’s cheaper to get the parts from Italy but for example the big DCC connector alone was almost 50€ here. The height sensor connectors 8€/piece, the suspension and lateral sensors 3€/piece and at this point we’re already at 100€. Then you buy the wiring itself for 50€ and we are already over the chinese cable set price (130€).

So based on this fact, I did not want to bother. And you do need to have some price for your own work as well. I’m not that purist :)

And I personally HATE the wiring jobs. I would easily let someone else do it, but I don’t want some greasemonkey to remove interior parts and break them on the way.
 
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yeah, it's all relative, Finland is stupid expensive. DCC connector is 17€ here. oh, and I love wiring jobs :P
 
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yeah, it's all relative, Finland is stupid expensive. DCC connector is 17€ here. oh, and I love wiring jobs :P
 
   #75  

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I agree :) the prices here are total overkill.
 
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50% of the job done. Rear struts installed and cabled. Also DCC module and rear acceleration sensor installed as well.
Shitty job :)

Took four hours but I did install sound absorbers to rear wheel arches and trunk floor as well :)

Tomorrow front struts, height and acceleration sensors and rest of the cabling. Luckily easier part ahead. Removing all trim bits from the trunk area is shit shit shit :)
 
   #77  

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yeah, like I ever believed you were really gonna wait until the summer :D
 
   #78  

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Just couldn’t resist ��
 
   #79  

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First drive to office this morning and I can give my initial thoughts even only rears have been changed.

Compared to stock R-Line struts, the DCC ones seem to be a bit softer at their default setting when the valve is in working condition yet. But this is only good. I've never really liked the R-Line suspension as it's quite harsh and for the SUV it's not maybe the optimal solution.
I don't know if this same verdict will go for normal cars with DCC but at least now initially on SUV the DCC seems to work quite nicely. I'll give the final verdict when everything is installed and wired.

Oh by the way, Tiguan is now pretty quiet car after doors, rear wheel arches and trunk area is covered with sound absorbers. I used STP heavy mat which is really easy to install as it does not need any heating to stick. Only rolling :)
 
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   #80  

darkchina811

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do you have Driving Mode Selection? I ask because I am curious to know how you'll enable DCC into the menu, as module 14 has no coding. in theory it should appear after you code the other modules for DCC, but since DPS is a FeC, I am afraid DPS with DCC is a different FeC than DPS without DCC. in that case, I am screwed :(
 
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