2006 Audi A6 C6 ABS Fault 01435

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davisev5225

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I guess the question now is whether that's really the cause of the DTC. Clear the fault code. Try to reproduce a negative value. Is that when the fault code sets?

-Uwe-
I'll be logging all my trips to see if I can get a fault code. My traction control gets disabled while logging, but I'm hoping that won't prevent the fault code from setting.
 
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I wonder if G201 is mislabeled in stack and should be either G518 / G519 or even F234 for this car?
 
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davisev5225

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I wonder if G201 is mislabeled in stack and should be either G518 / G519 or even F234 for this car?
So I know that F234 is the brake pedal pressure sensor, what are the other two? Google isn't coming up with anything useful.
 
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They are front left and right brake PSI sensors and WD shows no G201 at all & not for any version ABS in that era.
 
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davisev5225

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They are front left and right brake PSI sensors and WD shows no G201 at all & not for any version ABS in that era.
WD wouldn't show it. G201 is integrated into the ABS controller, not a separate sensor.
 
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Will have to look at SSP and if that is the case time for module and a ref to check NHTSA for campaign huh?
 
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I have a log during which the error code was thrown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/07x864lxpy44bh5/LOG-03-01F-054-097-2019.07.29.CSV?dl=0

Interestingly, while it did occur after a string of negative values, it isn't the only such occurrence in this log. There are other instances of multiple negative values with no code being thrown. I placed a marker when the error code occurred, see line 5133 or timestamp 2236.58 for the marker.

Related, I managed to find a 2006 A6 in a local junkyard, so I got a used ABS module for ~$75 instead of having to purchase one new. I feel incredibly lucky, as this generation car doesn't usually make it to junkyards - the dismantlers/parts resellers usually get their grubby mits on them first. I'll probably swap it in and code it this weekend, if I can make the time.
 
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I have a log during which the error code was thrown.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/07x864lxpy44bh5/LOG-03-01F-054-097-2019.07.29.CSV?dl=0

Interestingly, while it did occur after a string of negative values, it isn't the only such occurrence in this log. There are other instances of multiple negative values with no code being thrown. I placed a marker when the error code occurred, see line 5133 or timestamp 2236.58 for the marker.
I'm not seeing an obvious reason for why it threw the DTC at that point. :confused:

-Uwe-
 
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More likely a loose weld joint that could be fixed with actual solder?

This process of bridging circuits in all modules I have seen & so far has been less than reliable, especially a CVT or MAF & ABS, no?

It's only being used to save labor times and cost lives it seems, no?
 
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So... I realize it's a long shot, but it doesn't cost very much (in theory). I've opted to try a full fluid flush first, just in case my existing fluid has deteriorated. A test probe still shows it within spec for water absorption, but it could have other issues.

Unfortunately, after bleeding using a vacuum at the bleeder valves, I now have a different fault - blinking and chiming brake light on the dash. Now I'm troubleshooting that. I assume it's because I didn't pressurize the brake fluid reservoir like Elsa states...
 
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davisev5225

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OK, those shenanigans are done. Blinking brake light was due to the brake fluid level sensor being jammed. Got it unstuck, all is well. Brakes are functioning normally, and the pedal is so very smooth now.

Now it's once again a waiting game to see if the error comes back.
 
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davisev5225

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Well, it lasted a day before the error came back. I guess I'm swapping my ABS pump/module.

Need to order the correct bleeder and some more brake fluid, so I'll report back when I'm all done.
 
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Are you sure grounds and power are in perfect order & too carry actual current needed to the module?
 
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davisev5225

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Are you sure grounds and power are in perfect order & too carry actual current needed to the module?
Since I personally do not own the necessary tools, nor do I have the necessary technical skill to test that... no, I'm not sure. But it is a highly unlikely scenario, so I have a reasonable doubt that it is a power delivery issue. Also, if it was a power issue, I'm pretty sure I'd be getting other intermittent errors, not just the same pressure sensor every time.

Besides, I already have a used ABS module in my possession, so I can swap it with relative ease.
 
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davisev5225

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A mere headlight bulb & alligator clips, with RTFB and WD?
I feel as though that wouldn't produce accurate results in 3V and 5V sensors. Also, the wiring diagram doesn't typically list the expected output from a sensor, especially since the exact output voltage is what determines the sensor value, so it likely doesn't work terribly well for 12V sensors either.

That said, I'm not actually sure what voltage this sensor runs at, nor do I have the wiring diagrams in front of me right now to check.
 
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OMG ....
I'm speaking of pump and module itself not the sub level embedded stuff.

Talk about argumentation dismissive behavior for only trying to indicate a simple test.
Did you know most early faults like this in early ABS units could have all kinds of issues for that or so much as a faulty terminal relay/ignition switch?
By all means continue with your prior methods, I apologize for trying to help you to be thorough.
 
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davisev5225

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OMG ....
I'm speaking of pump and module itself not the sub level embedded stuff.

Talk about argumentation dismissive behavior for only trying to indicate a simple test.
Did you know most early faults like this in early ABS units could have all kinds of issues for that or so much as a faulty terminal relay/ignition switch?
By all means continue with your prior methods, I apologize for trying to help you to be thorough.
I apparently mis-understood what you were suggesting. I thought you were still suggesting a component-level test of the ABS module. I guess instead you're wanting me to test the main 12V supply and ground on the connector?

I'll need to get some alligator clips, but I've got everything else needed. I've even got appropriate resistors (5W and 27W) to use instead of a bulb.
 
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Yes but also with overlays to see if problem vacates during road test to duplicate conditions.
 
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