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That sounds so stupid. I'm really not looking forward to fixing it either. Mine is a plug thank God but sadly it isn't the sensor. It's seated properly and I replaced the rear wheel bearing with a FAG one about 3 years ago. I think it's probably the module which is so annoying as I'll have to do...

Ok I've driven it a bit more, took it to work. Early days but brakes feel fine. Still have a lack of confidence in it since last brake failure brakes were also fine up till that point. However once they failed brakes were spongy and now they're not so it seems there much have been air somewhere...

Update: I've bled all four brakes starting from front left, right, rear left, right. Took it for a test drive and brake pedal felt quite stiff but not too much. Had abs light, tyre pressure and esp come on, will hook up vcds and check. I did replace a faulty abs sensor too so wonder if that's...

Ok I've just done this abs test. Opened both front calipers, attached pressure bleeder in case I run low on brake fluid. Had someone pump brake 10 times and on the 10th pump I closed the brakes. About 1 litre was used. Then I went to output test and did the full sequential test. Each data...

From what I've seen this bleeds both front brakes, what about the rear brakes or do I leave them as I have already bled them when I changed rear calipers. Yesterday I changed the second rear caliper. Don't know if you remember but I had seized handbrake so now I'm changing the pair of them.

I was told only one caliper needs bleeding if only one line was open. It makes sense though as there is now air in that line near the caliper. So with a pressure bleeder I bled it at 20 psi. Wouldn't have thought the air could travel the system. Perhaps something did happen. Anyhow I'll bleed...

I only changed one caliper and drove a few hundred miles and brakes felt solid. But I'll go ahead and bleed it anyway.

An update on this issue. Brakes are working but feel spongy and have felt ever since the initial brake loss. I can't get my head around why they failed to work and why they're working now. Still not driving the car. Will be checking all the caliper pins, pistons and changing the other rear...

Just one as only changed one caliper. Was a quick swap cant see why such a significant issue has occurred.

So I changed rear driver side caliper and refilled brake fluid with ezibleed. Took out all the bubbles and dro e car for 200 so miles for a few days. I arrived back home and pushed brake pedal and it had no pressure, pedal went down and failed to stop. Luckily very minor damage to the car. So...

Ok guys so an update. Checked injector deviation and all is good. However I have excessive fuel consumption. So I used to get about 500-550 miles per tank or 10 miles per litre of fuel (55 litres udally gets it full). Now I get about 380-420 miles per tank. This recent full tank of fuel I drove...

Turned out it was engine fault codes. All is well now.

Turned out to be a faulty coolant pump 2. After that did a dpf regen, cleaned the anti shudder valve and intake manifold. Also fitted the metal plate that stops intake flaps from rotating too much. All fault codes gone.

ok so after a few months I've got some faults reappear however the fuse that I changed is fine. I feel one component is causing the rest of them to show faults or there is a wiring issue. the intake manifold fault has pre-existed and I believe its due to flap over turning. The oxygen sensor...

okay so got another gearbox in and all is well. no vault codes on vcds. does get stuck in gear when in limp mode but I believe that is caused by limp mode or maybe im wrong. Can only be shifted manually when in limp mode.

When it says left front brake, if steering is on the left like America, is the front left the same side as the steering wheel? I was hoping to just put brake fluid in bottle, push brake pedal open the bleeder, bleed air and then close the bleeder valve and then release brake pedal. Do I have...

Wow you learn something everyday. I didn't know there were relays inside the fuse box that sits next to the battery in the engine bay. Watching YouTube you have to remove the battery tray and a relay box slides out of the fuse box. I'll check it tomorrow now.

Ok guys, so I hooked up positive and negative batteries to the starter motor positive side on the solenoid and negative on the body. Further more I removed the Terminal 50 connector and plugged another lead to positive battery to the connector. The idea was to direct power the starter motor to...

Ok guys, so what i know so terminal 50 is the signal that runs from multiple areas that all connect once ignition is on. From alarm and clutch pedal to the starter motor. I will check if this is working. If this is working I want to hook the cables from battery to starter and then cause starter...

Hmm....okay so this car doesn't have a key, it's a fob and so I'd imagine crank position is with fob all the way in which turns ignition on. After doing this how do I check for signal, using multimeter checking for voltage? How much should the signal be? Am I checking the thick red cable that is...