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I apologize for NOTHING for subjecting everyone to this absolute disaster. :D :popcorn:

That's a good assumption.

It won't harm the car, and it won't be the cause of any battery drain concerns you might have. It just means you won't have any cruise control functionality at all, not even "dumb" cruise control.

The cost doesn't end there. You also have to get it calibrated once it's installed. You could build your own jig at home for it, but by the time you spend all the money to build it, you might as well have just gone to a body shop and paid them to do it, and you're guaranteed it will be done right.

Get a new volt meter, yours is clearly defective. 18V on a 12V system would fry sensitive electronics. Your ACC has multiple hardware failures, that's going to be expensive to repair/replace. VCDS can't correct hardware issues, nor can it reflash software as a "last resort" attempt. The...

In this we agree. :D

As I mentioned previously, they use extremely accurate (usually to 3 or 4 decimal places) microprocessors to measure voltage. They don't have to drop 50A (or more) of current like the old-school testers, they can do it with significantly less current, measure the much smaller voltage drop, and...

It's possible if it uses pulsed power to trickle charge instead of constant current, though usually such a "reconditioned" state doesn't stick around in the long-term. Once a lead-acid battery starts to sulfate, there's really no going back without at least changing the acid if you're lucky...

The number of professional shops that use Autel diagnostic tools renders your sarcasm moot. :thumbs:

Microprocessor with extremely accurate voltage measurements... though I've never heard of the "Motopower" brand, so I have no idea how accurate it actually is. I have a similar unit made by Autel (so at least reputable), but I only use it to determine if it's worth the effort to pull a battery...

I'm pretty sure 0.4 and 0.5 ohm is too high for that short of a wire. It should test at or near zero ohms on a typical multimeter. I'd say the wire resistance is exactly the issue. I bet if he tested his repair wires, they'd have much lower resistance readings.

Of course they are. VAG dealers are making a lot of money thanks to SFD, so VAG itself has an incentive to slow-walk 3rd party solutions.

Info from a mechanic who's been working on cars longer than I've been alive. He's (almost) never wrong, so I trusted without verifying. Now that I've Googled it (which I should have done to start with...), I see he was wrong. I've updated my post accordingly.

This is one of the primary reasons why ethanol is used as a significant additive in gasoline blends - lubrication of the fuel pump(s) and injectors. Nope, I should have double-checked my info before posting.

That link was auto-added by the forum because eBay is the most common source of frustration around here. As much as I hate the attitude that goes with it, there is quite a bit of truth in the phrase "German vehicles are pay-to-play". C.R.A.P. parts from eBay, AliExpress, etc. almost always...

In that case, time to get a wiring diagram <--- clickable link and start verifying the wiring to/from that switch. You're likely going to regret trying to cheap out on electronic parts for a German vehicle. Did you notice that "eBay" turned into a clickable link? I can't tell you how many...

So first off, you are correct about the "short to ground" issue. That usually means the control module isn't seeing power flow OUT to the relevant component, in this case, the switch itself. If it really is only $25 to replace (with a GENUINE switch, right??!!!), then I'd say load the parts...

Full scan in-line for everyone. Note to @atikovi: we don't generally like clicking links to view scans. ;) Monday,18,November,2024,10:15:53:53717 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64 VCDS Version: 24.7.1.0 (x64) Data version: 20240919 DS356.3 www.Ross-Tech.com...

ODIS with online access to VW's file server required. It's possible that an independent shop has all that, but not likely.

I can attest to this, I've been down that road (though I didn't cut the wire, I found a different solution). What happens is the access start module also contains the steering lock, which is controlled by a worm gear mounted to a tiny motor. Over time, it loses its lubrication and eventually...