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Thread: Coil Pack & Associated Wiring Upgrades

  1. #1
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Coil Pack & Associated Wiring Upgrades


    Jacks guide for most 1.8T and some others that can use this coil........
    Additionally this can be a guide to all integrated coil packs for direct fire, or waste type spark etc..


    Step 1. Use coils of known quality and OEM origin.
    Examples: Bosch, Temic, Eldor, STI/Karlyn, Telefunken, Hitachi, Bremi or Beru!

    Anything outside the scope of these venders is not recommended by me.

    Do not do coil pack conversions with hold downs from later vehicles.
    This includes all of this misleading horse apples you read about in the other cesspool forums; or that allow advertisers to steal from you, because it's in fact..... a pay to play atmosphere!

    OP application:

    Use coil 06B-905-115E Hitachi
    ( This part number was never superseded, because it doesn't have a problem as the other design types )

    It is far superior over part # 06A-905-115D etc. or later.

    This coil bolts down, and has a segregated gasket.
    It has a coil winding that is many times in size in comparison, & has a superior heat sink to cool the integrated power-stage!

    Step 2. Sort connections and isolate the grounds/shield from, power, and switch pulse at harness connectors.

    Step 3.
    Replace all grounds with heavier grade wire to a bus bar.....further back to the battery.
    Coil connectors in addition to new spring connectors........ should be GOLD plated!
    Snaps of plastic barrels should be functional, to secure connector during operation.
    The wire is to be copper or recommended stainless steel, & with a Teflon insulation barrier In VC area, that is high heat.
    Rule of thumb is........ to increase the wire to at least the next size up from what was present.

    Step 4. Replace spark plugs with approved Bosch Spark plug, and use Silber type plugs if available.
    Do not use gimmick plugs.
    Pay close attention to octane of fuel, and the quality.......in addition to spark plug heat ranges, & by using VCDS to determine CF 0x01-08-020 logging the data.

    Step 5. Run new trigger leads back to ecu for each coil, & with larger diameter wire to improve the signal.....further it should be shielded!

    Running the wires as a twisted pair will suffice.........

    Note : I have experimented with making a two wire bus from the ecu by splitting off ZYL's 1-4 and 2-3........ than by pairing them.
    This nets a waste spark principle, and allows for plug cleaning, additionally as an anti foul method for rich race mixtures.
    Further this was found to improve emissions, by lowering CAT amplitude efficiency threshold, & because of a more completed burn on stock cars!

    Step 6. The power line to the BUS of the coils, should be enhanced with larger diameter wire, & a power clarity module/noise filter/capacitor.
    This insures that the coil will have the power it needs, & especially during charging system fluctuations, further this will remove noise to the coil, & that can disrupt proper function.

    Step 7. Be sure to use things like shrink tubing, spiral wrap, wire loom, heat shields, and proper anti chafe.
    Make your work look neat by means of using proper clean work, and pay attention to what you are doing.
    RTV silicone can be used as a rubber bumper, if left to cure overnight between intersections of chafe points.
    Very commonly used in aviation.

    Use the JPPSG system.
    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...uot-JPPSG-quot

    Please STOP FOD "Give before it Hurts"

    Oh and if you are one of the idiot kids that think........... because the coils are a different color, or have to have them RED etc..
    Consider a sticker decal being made, paint them, or have your head examined.


    NostraJackAss has Spoken!


    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 09-02-2016 at 08:50 AM.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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  3. #2
    Benevolent Dictator Uwe's Avatar
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    Jack, got any pics of an engine you've upgraded in this manner?

    -Uwe-
    The engineering problems are likely insurmountable. It would be like proposing to land a rocket booster section on a barge floating in the middle of the ocean.

  4. #3
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    Eric might already have them in my library.

    Here is a finished product with added heat sink to coil bridge I made.

    Last edited by Jack@European_Parts; 09-01-2016 at 12:40 PM.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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  6. #4
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    JUNK YARD WARS!

    A real race setup.........on the cheap!

    For racing only and off road track competition!

    Direct fire individual coils and waste type spark.
    This can be done on all VW-Audi engines with DFI or coil packs.


    1.8T setup parts list quick fabrication.

    16 Valve wire set from PL 1.8 1986-1989 Jokeswagen GJS.

    Take individual ABA coils 6N0-905-104 and convert 4 of them. 96-2000.

    Personally I prefer the heavier coil from the early VR6 Corrado, and first ABA 93-95 These had a nicer heat sink, however, than you need to source the later power stage.

    Now wire in the power conditioner to terminal 15 of each coil.
    Ground to power stage of each coil & relocate power stages under Cal in ECU area to cool it better, & on separate heat sink.
    Trigger to ECU to power stages and make them waste if desired by making twisted pair aforementioned.

    You can mount coils on engine or in Cal area, further now use the 16V wires to get to the plugs........ making a nice loom and factor motor movement!

    Rest assured you will never have a coil failure again by doing this, and can really crank the dwell up for output.

    Enhance drain area of CAL to flash water to proper drain areas..........& so this area is protected!

    The original Beru 16V looms are nice, because they will accept braided stainless core Porsche wire with shields if desired, and can be secured nice.

    Take the time to hack the OEM connectors from the dump and make all look like it's OEM....further use W-crimps.

    Hope this helps the coil depressed environment or poor racer, and screw you whore parts sellers of false promise conversions!

    NostraJackAss Has Spoken!
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  7. #5
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    This information below will help many!

    NostraJackASS Has Spoken!

    http://www.flukenetworks.com/knowled...nd-testing-dtx



    Attenuation (Insertion Loss) Measurement and Testing - DTX CableAnalyzer


    Standards now use the term "insertion loss" and not attenuation.

    Electrical signals transmitted by a link lose some of their energy as they travel along the link. Insertion loss measures the amount of energy that is lost as the signal arrives at the receiving end of the cabling link. The insertion loss measurement quantifies the effect of the resistance the cabling link offers to the transmission of the electrical signals.


    Insertion loss characteristics of a link change with the frequency of the signal to be transmitted; e.g. higher frequency signals experience much more resistance. Stated a different way, the links show more insertion loss for higher frequency signals. Insertion loss is therefore to be measured over the applicable frequency range. If you test the insertion loss of a Category 5e channel, for instance, the insertion loss needs to be verified for signals ranging from 1 MHz to 100 MHz. For Category 8 links the frequency range is 1 through 2000 MHz. Insertion loss also increases fairly linearly with the length of the link. In other words, if link "A" is twice as long as link "B", and all other characteristics are the same, the insertion loss of link "A" will turn out twice as high as the insertion loss of link "B."


    Insertion loss is expressed in decibels or dB. The decibel is a logarithmic expression of the ratio of output voltage (voltage of the signal received at the end of the link) divided by input voltage (the voltage launched into the cable by the transmitter).

    Results Interpretation
    The insertion loss in a cable is largely dependent upon the gauge of wire used in constructing the pairs. 24 gauge wires will have less insertion loss than the same length 26 gauge (thinner) wires. Also, stranded cabling will have 20-50% more insertion loss than solid copper conductors. Field test equipment will report the worst value of insertion loss and margin, where the margin is the difference between the measured insertion loss and the maximum insertion loss permitted by the standard selected. Hence a margin of 4 dB is better than 1 dB.

    Troubleshooting Recommendations
    Excessive length is the most common reason for failing insertion loss. Fixing links that have failed insertion loss normally involves reducing the length of the cabling by removing any slack in the cable run.

    Excessive insertion loss can also be caused by poorly terminated connectors / plugs. A poor connection can add significant insertion loss. Your clue to this cause is to compare the insertion loss on the four pairs. If only one or two pairs have high insertion loss, this suggests an installation issue. If all pairs have too much insertion loss, check for excess length. However, impurities in the copper cable can also cause insertion loss failures; again this typically happens on one pair only.
    Prolonged exposure to water or excessive use of water-based cable lubricants can also increase Insertion Loss and degrade cabling performance. If cables are allowed to dry for a sufficient amount of time after excessive exposure to water, the Insertion Loss performance will typically return to normal. To avoid problems, ensure water isn’t allowed to become trapped in conduits and follow manufacturers’ instructions for the correct amount of cable lubricant to be used.

    Temperature also affects insertion loss in some cables. The dielectric materials, which form the conductor insulation and cable jacket, absorb some of the transmitted signal as it propagates along the wire. This is especially true of cables containing PVC. PVC material contains a chlorine atom which is electrically active and forms dipoles in the insulating materials. These dipoles oscillate in response to the electromagnetic fields surrounding the wires, and the more they vibrate, the more energy is lost from the signal. Temperature increases exacerbate the problem, making it easier for the dipoles to vibrate within the insulation. This results in increasing loss with temperature.

    For this reason, standards bodies tend to specify insertion loss requirements adjusted for 20C. Cables operating in temperature extremes can be subject to additional insertion loss and where this is likely, the design of the cabling system should take this into consideration. You may not be able to run the maximum 90 meters (295 ft) defined in the standards. Most consultants try and keep runs below 80 meters (262 ft) to provide a safety margin. This of course is not always possible when space is a premium and the number of telecommunications rooms has to be kept to a minimum. From ANSI/TIA-568-C.2 Annex G:







    https://solutions.borderstates.com/r...e-limitations/
    Copper Wire Limitations



    Due to the electrical properties of copper wiring, data signals
    will undergo some corruption during their travels.
    Signal
    corruption within certain limits is acceptable, but if the electrical
    properties of the cable will cause serious distortion of the signal, that
    cable must be replaced or repaired.
    As a signal propagates down a length of cable, it loses some of its
    energy.
    So, a signal that starts out with a certain input voltage,
    will arrive at the load with a reduced voltage level. The amount of signal
    loss is known as attenuation, which is measured in decibels, or dB. If the
    voltage drops too much, the signal may no longer be useful.
    Attenuation has a direct relationship with frequency and cable
    length.
    The high frequency used by the network, the greater the
    attenuation. Also, the longer the cable, the more energy a signal loses by
    the time it reaches the load.
    A signal losses energy during its travel because of electrical
    properties at work in the cable.
    For example, every conductor
    offers some dc resistance to a current (sometimes called copper losses).
    The longer the cable, the more resistance it offers.
    Resistance reduces the amount of signal passing through the wires –
    it does not alter the signal.
    Reactance, inductive or capacitive,
    distorts the signal.
    The two concerns of signal transmission are:


    1. That enough signal gets through. (Quantity)
    2. That the signal is not distorted. (Quality)










    http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comu...agnosevoltdrop

    Electrical Automotive Troubleshooting

    Diagnosing Voltage Drop
    One of the most rampant electrical maladies showing up in automotive service bays today is the phenomenon known as voltage drop. Left unchecked, voltage drop causes countless unsolved electrical mysteries, especially when it infects the ground side of a circuit. It can also trick you into replacing parts that are not bad.
    The more connections and wiring a vehicle has, the more vulnerable the electrical system is to voltage drop.
    To contain electrical voltage drop, practice safe electrical service. This means measuring voltage drop before reaching any conclusions. "Voltage dropping" a circuit tell you when the circuit is too restricted to operate a component (motor, relay, light bulb, etc.) or operate it correctly. If the circuit is restricted, repair it and retest. If there is no restriction and the component still does not run or run correctly, then replace the component.

    In this example, if the water pipe completely collapses, water stops flowing, pressure drops to zero and the water wheel stops turning. Electrically, the same thing happens when a wire falls off or a connection breaks. Current stops flowing, voltage drops to zero. A starter motor would quit or a headlight would go out.
    Symptoms of voltage drop
    Often confusing and contradictory, electrical voltage drop symptoms vary according to the circuit's job and the severity of the voltage drop.



    • inoperative electrical parts
    • sluggish, lazy electrical devices
    • erratic, intermittent devices
    • devices that work sluggishly or erratically during periods of high electrical loads
    • excessive radio interference or noises in the radio
    • damaged throttle or transmission cables or linkage
    • repeated throttle or transmission cable failures
    • damaged drivetrain parts
    • engine or transmission performance complaints
    • no-starts or hard starts
    • high sensor or computer voltages
    • erratic engine or transmission computer performance
    • false trouble codes in the memory of any on-board computer
    • premature or repeated A/C compressor clutch failure.


    This symptom list brings up several points.


    1. Visual inspections miss most cases of electrical voltage drop. You usually can't see the corrosion inside a connection or the damaged wire that is causing the problem.
    2. Ground-side voltage drop, a commonly overlooked cause of electrical trouble, can cause most of these symptoms. Any circuit or component is only as good as its ground.
    3. The more sophisticated electrical systems become, the more important their grounds are. The number of electrical components has increased rapidly and most do not have separate ground wires. Instead, these devices are grounded to the engine or body. Rust, grease, vibration and/or careless repairs often restrict the circuit from the engine/body back to the battery.
    4. Many components such as engine sensors share a common ground. Therefore, a bad ground complicates diagnosis because it affects several components at once.
    5. Some shop manuals and diagnostic charts or fault trees recommend checking grounds last. In reality, it is much quicker to check ground circuits before you climb that fault tree.
    6. It's quicker and smarter to routinely check a circuit's voltage drop than it is to memorize long lists of symptoms. If experience has taught us nothing else, it's that chasing symptoms is no substitute for routine and thorough voltage drop testing.


    Experience has taught us other reasons to check voltage drop first. Voltage drop, usually on the ground side, causes inaccurate or bizarre voltmeter readings and oscilloscope patterns. Moreover, when you connect a voltmeter or scope to a system with bad grounds, the test equipment itself can create a good substitute ground. This can be frustrating: as long as your equipment is connected, the circuit works and you can't find anything wrong!
    Basic procedures
    Whenever an electrical problem gives you fits, take a deep breath and think of the basic electrical building block, the series circuit. Drawings 1 through 7 show basic series circuits. No matter how complicated a system is you can always simplify it into mini-series circuits. Then, inspect each circuit for voltage drop.

    Also, relate electricity to water flowing through a water circuit. Water pressure inside the reservoir pushes gallons of water through the pipe. The water turns the water wheel and then flows back into the reservoir. In an electrical circuit, electrical pressure (voltage or volts) pushes electrical volume (current or amps) through the circuit, operating a load. The load may be a computer, a motor, a lamp, a relay, or other device. In the water circuit, the water uses up most of its energy turning the water wheel. Water continues flowing toward the reservoir, but it flows at a lower pressure.
    Likewise, electrical pressure (voltage) is used up operating the load. Therefore, voltage falls to about zero on the ground side, but current keeps flowing toward the battery. Because the voltage in a healthy ground circuit should be about zero, some technicians call it ground zero.

    A kinked return pipe restricts water flow back to the reservoir, slowing down the water wheel and causing a pressure reading on the return side of the wheel. Likewise, ground side voltage drop hurts load performance and causes a voltage reading at the ground side of the load.

    Resistance—Restriction
    When you think of excessive resistance, imagine a dent or kink that is restricting water flow through a pipe. Common sense should tell you that a kink anywhere in the water circuit (supply side or return side) restricts water flow, causing the water wheel to slow down or stop turning.
    Excessive resistance has the same effect on an electrical circuit. Bad connections and broken or under size wires act like a pipe with a kink, restricting current flow. Like the water circuit, restricting current flow anywhere — hot side or ground side — hurts the performance of the load. The effect on the load is hard to predict because it varies with the severity of the restriction. For example, the motor in a restricted circuit may stop working or just run slower than normal.
    A restricted circuit can cause an A/C compressor clutch to slip and prematurely burn out. A computer on a restricted circuit may shut off or else work erratically. When corrosion, loose connections or other types of resistance restrict a circuit, volts and amps both drop. If volts drop, amps drop too. That is why when you find a voltage drop in a connection or cable, you know the connection or cable is restricted.

    Look at the water circuits in our drawings and remember two critical points. First, a free-flowing ground side is as important as a free-flowing hot side. Second, a ground side restriction is the only thing that causes voltage readings greater than 0–0.1V in any ground circuit.

    A completely collapsed return pipe stops water flow, stalling the water wheel and causing a system pressure reading at the return side of the wheel. Likewise, a broken ground wire totally blocks current flow, shuts off the load and causes the ground side of the load to read system voltage.

    Voltage drop tests
    Electrical voltage drop varies according to current flow. Unless you operate the circuit so current flows through it, you can't measure voltage drop. Because an ohmmeter's battery can't supply the current that normally flows through most circuits, ohmmeter tests usually can't detect restrictions as accurately as a voltage drop test.

    Open-circuit problems such as broken or disconnected wires or connections stop current flow. After you fix an open circuit, switch the circuit on again and check for lingering voltage drop. Until you get current flowing and check the circuit again, you can't know if the entire circuit is healthy.
    Although resistance-free connections, wires and cables would be ideal, most of them will contain at least some voltage drop. If your manuals do not list voltage drop values, use the following as maximum limits:


    • 0.00V across a connection
    • 0.20V across a wire or cable
    • 0.30V across a switch
    • 0.10V at a ground


    Because most computer circuits operate way down in the milliamp range, they don't tolerate voltage drop as well as other circuits do. Note that a milliamp is one-thousandth (0.001) amp. The recommended working limit is 0.10V-drop across low-current wires and switches. Testing low-current circuits also requires a high-impedance (10-megohm) voltmeter. A low-impedance voltmeter may load a low-current circuit so much that it gives an incorrect reading or no reading whatsoever! Most professional-grade digital multimeters (DMMs) have 10-megohm input impedance. Using a DMM is the fastest way to accurately measure voltage drops. If the DMM you own does not have autoranging capability, use a low-voltage (0-1 V) scale for voltage drop testing. Remember that test lights are not accurate enough to diagnose electrical voltage drop.Quick ground tests
    Because ground circuit voltage drop can cause most of the symptoms listed earlier, consider adopting this new work habit: test grounds first! Before you do a tune-up, check out electrical problems, or test a starting, charging, ABS or air conditioning system, routinely test the engine and body grounds. Connect your DMM between the engine and negative battery terminal. Safely disarm the ignition and crank the engine for a few seconds.

    If the voltage drop is excessive, repair the engine ground circuit and retest. Note that on some distributorless ignition systems, the simplest way to prevent the engine from starting during the ground test is to pull the fuel pump fuse. Next, connect the DMM between the negative battery terminal and the vehicle's firewall. Then start the engine and switch on all the major electrical accessories. Too much voltage drop? Then fix the body ground and retest.
    Once engine and body grounds are within limits, proceed with your diagnosis. Do not be surprised if fixing these grounds solves the car's problems. The fact that a vehicle passes the body ground test does not mean you can safely ground your voltmeter wherever you want. Some technicians have run themselves in circles for hours because their voltmeters were not well grounded. For safe electrical service, make yourself a 20- or 30- foot jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end. When you have to test an electric fuel pump, lighting system or ABS computer in the rear of the vehicle, ground your DMM to the battery with the jumper wire.
    Computer ground kinks
    Because computer circuits operate on such low current, the standard ground tests may not reveal a marginal ground on an on-board computer. Before you condemn any on-board computer, check its grounds first. Operate the computer system and backprobe each computer ground terminal. If you measure anything greater than 0.10V, trace that ground circuit and locate the problem.

    Sometimes, computer grounds are connected to a spot where they are easily disturbed or prone to corrosion, such as a thermostat-housing bolt. Computer connector terminals also can corrode. Removing the connector and spraying the terminals with electrical cleaner may be all it takes to eliminate the voltage drop.
    Experience shows that as little as 0.30V on a computer ground terminal can cause trouble. Try pinpointing that with a test light! Poor computer and/or sensor grounds can cause higher-than-normal sensor voltages and false trouble codes. In many cases, the bad ground prevents the computer or sensor from pulling a voltage signal down to or near ground zero. Sure, accessing the computer to check grounds may be a hassle. Nevertheless, mistakenly replacing expensive sensors and computers is a bigger hassle.

    Connect a DMM across part of a circuit and it directly reads the voltage drop across that wire, cable, switch, or connection. Here, one DMM would display the voltage loss between the battery and the load. The other would show the voltage loss from the ground side of the load to the battery.

    Body ground gremlins
    Keep your eyes peeled for missing body grounds. If someone else worked on the vehicle, he may have forgotten to reconnect body ground wires or cables. Remember that when the body ground is restricted, current tries to find another route back to the battery. The easiest alternate route may he through the transmission shift cable or the throttle cable. Not only can this current weld the cable together, it also can pit or erode bushings and bearings inside the transmission.

    If you find the insulation on the body ground wire is burnt or blistered, you can bet that starter current overheated the wire. When the engine ground is restricted, starter current tries to return to the battery through the body ground circuit. Experience shows that if the body ground circuit can handle the current load, the customer may not notice the problem right away.
    Under periods of heavy current flow, a restricted body ground may hamper or shut off a component. For example, turn signals have been known to stop blinking when the driver steps on the brake pedal. Testing confirmed that a restricted body ground choked off the turn signals. The ground could not handle current from the turn signals and brake lights at the same time.
    Safe service
    Practicing safe electrical service helps you solve electrical problems quicker and more profitably than guessing and swapping parts. Put your DMM to work wiping out electrical voltage drop today. It is the responsible thing to do.





    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
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    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

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  9. #6
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    During experiments!

    I should probably add that when working with segregated power-stages, sharing the triggers to add pulses & where they normally are not present, that diodes should be used, however, I felt that for the advanced users that play in this it would be self evident!
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

  10. #7
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...ut-please-help

    Well I certainly hope Kahlua will come to his senses and get off probation to fix his car.

    It is July 4TH in 10 minutes here and if my new friend wants to call me on the bat phone number for personal attention & on a holiday for free, than he should PM me.

    FYI: I will be putting a clutch in my ALH in my spare time & of course in the AC........car is pre chilled right now!

    If someone else is stupid enough to go outside in this weather or has to by emergency and needs me, PM me for July 4TH only.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions EPE
    Certified Master Trained NY/BAR/BAD 7076062/ASE/SAE/NASTF Legal Factory Authorized/Licensed GeKo/FaZit # 403738
    Specializing in Custom Services IE: "welding-fabrication" / EPA-SMOG Update or Pass-Thru-Programming / Data Transfer / Immobilizers & OEM Quality Parts
    Above Magic!
    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

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