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Thread: CCTA TSI valve actuator problem

  1. #11
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    Jack, could you explain how oil is regulated on the TSI or how to test it?

    So here is an update on that lousy Passat that was such a headache. As I stated above, the engine had jumped time and I retimed it. Something still wasn't right and it idled like crap. Observing measuring block 94, I believe that was the block, the cam actuator wasn't working. I removed the cam bridge and checked the screen, removed the oil pan cleaned out the crud, checked the N205 to make sure it wasn't hanging up and tested the magnetic solenoid. The owner was pissed off that retiming the engine didn't fix the car and that it would require more money or a new engine. She also started saying that she hadn't authorized anything so I got fed up. She told me she was going to trade it in so I only charged her for the parts and said good riddance in order to avoid possible negative feedback on my business. Well she called me the other day to tell me what happened with the car. This time her attitude was totally different and she was actually pleasant to deal with. She also thanked me for everything I had done. Well the dealer offered her $1,000 trade in value for the car. She mentioned to me that she owed something like $9k! It looked like a $2500 car due to the condition and that's not considering the running state it was in.

    The dealership suggested they could fix it. Well, the car is still at the dealer 3 weeks later but they supposedly figured it out this week after replacing nearly everything! I have the invoice here, the customer dropped it off so I could look at it. Supposedly, they replaced all the chains, the lower crank sproket/cassett, both tensioners, all the chain rails, numerous bolts and screws, and air/oil seperator. They also charged her 3 times for "sealant" totaling $227...ouch! After all that and a $3200 bill the car was not fixed. They called her to say that they didn't fix it but they now know that the scroll valve is bad and they will replace that for free. There is no mention of a scroll valve on the invoice or a part number, etc. So what did they change? The N205, the cam adjuster/intake sprocket, both? Also, it doesn't seem that the dealer would replace a part and not put it on the invoice unless, they want it to appear that the parts they changed fixed the problem.

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  3. #12
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    800 miles later. Engine is working great. N205 functioning properly, shim is still in place between the solenoid and the n205 solenoid mount. I have not removed the n205 to check for contamination that would prevent it from traveling in further but I don't think that is the problem anyway. I may just leave the shim in place and not worry about it.

  4. #13
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    I'm having a very similar problem with my 2010 Gti. My chain tensioner failed so I ended up rebuilding the head. The timing is correct as near as I can tell, everything measured out fine. The engine idles and runs very nicely until it warms up and the ecu goes closed loop. I get a p0341 code which is for cam position sensor, implausible signal. I foolishly replaced the sensor and then the harness due to problems with another connector.

    What the car is doing, after it warms up, when I come to a stop and go to take off again, sounds diesel'ish upon moving. Kind of acts sluggish. The "service engine soon" light flashes and goes off and once I get above say 5mph the car is fine again. The only problem I'm having is when trying to take off.

    According to VCDS the possible causes are the cmp sensor, the harness or timing. The first two can be ruled out and that leaves me with timing. Now, I'm 99% sure the timing is correct. So that leaves me to believe that the INA adjuster on the end of the shaft may be bad. Any thoughts on that? Anyone know where to get one or a part number?

    Thanks for any help,

    Mike B

    edit- performing logs today to see what they have to say.
    Last edited by 88Mike; 03-28-2016 at 12:03 PM. Reason: addition

  5. #14
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    After doing some logs I found that the problem occurs between 1100 - 1900 rpm's. There would be a difference of 20 - 25 degree's when the trouble code would set. The worst one, specified was -1.5 and actual was -52. This only occurs after the engine is at operating temp. This leads me to think that it is indeed the adjuster. Btw, I've already replaced the cam bridge, and the valve in the end of the shaft that is operated by the solenoid.

    Thanks for any input,

    Mike B

  6. #15
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    After doing some logs I found that the problem occurs between 1100 - 1900 rpm's. There would be a difference of 20 - 25 degree's when the trouble code would set. The worst one, specified was -1.5 and actual was -52. This only occurs after the engine is at operating temp. This leads me to think that it is indeed the adjuster. Btw, I've already replaced the cam bridge, and the valve in the end of the shaft that is operated by the solenoid.

    Thanks for any input,

    Mike B
    Timing is out most likely...........and or oil PSI volume is insufficient from warn oil pump/improper regulation or sludge/contamination.

    Jack, could you explain how oil is regulated on the TSI or how to test it?
    Oil regulation is explained in the repair manual and SSP.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions LLC
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  8. #16
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    I'm going to check the oil pressure tomorrow and see what it's doing. The car has 72k miles on it, do the oil pumps tend to go out early on this engine too? The cam bridge I installed was a Chinese one and I wonder about the quality of the part. The screen fell out of the original one, found it laying on the cut out for the chain where the cover bolts down. I've been toying with the idea that maybe the screen in the new bridge was to restrictive. Possibly? Maybe? Since it only happens at low rpm's? I guess I could recheck the timing and while I'm in there put the old bridge back on to see if anything changes.

    Thanks,

    Mike B

  9. #17
    NostraJackAss Jack@European_Parts's Avatar
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    I remove the screens in all units since 1996..... and with no issue doing so..............while correcting many other issues or prevention of damage.
    Seems to be a planned obsolescence part to me.

    The fact it happens at low RPM says insufficient volume or PSI regulation/possibly stuck open slight leak.
    Could also be plugged sump with sludge.

    Key reason I isolate the sumps from turbo lubrication contaminates created........further using a non full synthetic oil blend.
    European Parts Emporium/Performance / Immobilizer Solutions LLC
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    www.FixMyEuro.com <<<<<CLICK HERE! or vwemporium@aol.com ( JPPSG & Unverified members need not PM me & Please don't email for free tech support...use the forum )
    Getting you CONTROL again of your property - TAKE IT! In Conjunction with.........

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  11. #18
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    Update?

    Quote Originally Posted by 88Mike View Post
    I'm going to check the oil pressure tomorrow and see what it's doing. The car has 72k miles on it, do the oil pumps tend to go out early on this engine too? The cam bridge I installed was a Chinese one and I wonder about the quality of the part. The screen fell out of the original one, found it laying on the cut out for the chain where the cover bolts down. I've been toying with the idea that maybe the screen in the new bridge was to restrictive. Possibly? Maybe? Since it only happens at low rpm's? I guess I could recheck the timing and while I'm in there put the old bridge back on to see if anything changes.

    Thanks,

    Mike B
    88Mike any update?

  12. #19
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    Sorry guys for the late response. Been very busy lately. I did get the car running properly. I went through the timing....again. It was correct. The problem did turn out to be the Chinese made cam bridge. There was a loose ball bearing in the oil tract that fed the intake cam. At idle an idle everything was ok. But when I started to give throttle the ball would restrict the oil flow to much until the engine was around 1900 rpm's. Finished removing the screen (thanks Jack!) from the old cam bridge and reinstalled it. Problem solved! Runs like a champ. At next service I'm pulling the oil pan to make sure the pick up tube screen isn't plugged up.

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  14. #20
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    Awesome, glad you figured it out! What was the reason for changing the cam bridge in the first place?

    Regards,
    j.

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