Audi A6 2006 2.0tdi timing belt failure

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Gremling

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Hi all,
My father in-law´s 2.0tdi had a timing belt that broke/ruptured last night. The driver told me that he only felt the total loss off engine power, but no "bang", he could not remember if he tried to restart the engine (I therefore assume he did).
I am not familiar with this engine, apart from having done a mod on the notorious oil pump so it will not fail again. I know the Diesel engine has a higher comp then petrol, but the shape of pistons and head can either cause havoc or it survives a belt rupture. So my question is: Does anyone have engine specific knowledge that can tell me what to expect here? Kind of a starer heads up.

Please do not be offended by my next statement, but the above question is for people that has very good experience with the BRE engine, or very similar engines, as my background is mechanics. I just want some idea what to tell father in-law before I start the repair/engine swap.

Regards
Gremling
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Audi A6 2006 2.0tdi timing belt failure
Hi all,
My father in-law´s 2.0tdi had a timing belt that broke/ruptured last night. The driver told me that he only felt the total loss off engine power, but no "bang", he could not remember if he tried to restart the engine (I therefore assume he did).
I am not familiar with this engine, apart from having done a mod on the notorious oil pump so it will not fail again. I know the Diesel engine has a higher comp then petrol, but the shape of pistons and head can either cause havoc or it survives a belt rupture. So my question is: Does anyone have engine specific knowledge that can tell me what to expect here? Kind of a starer heads up.

Please do net be offended by my next statement, but the above question is for people that has very good experience with the BRE engine, or very similar engines, as my background is mechanics. I just want some idea what to tell father in-law before I start the repair/engine swap.

Regards
Gremling

Hello Gremling,

The BRE is PD type TDI which mechanically fires the injectors by the camshaft and also controlled deviation by the ECU.

These engine's are most known for as you aforementioned lubrication issues and also why they require a special oil specification.

The lifters and camshaft seem to suffer extreme wear causing holes within the lifter face & in addition to cam lobe damage.

I would recommend if the belt broke that you verify the taper fit virtual pulley key-way on camshaft hub and crank gear key-way for proper inspection of centerline.

Remove cam and see if the cylinders will hold compressed regulated air, further using the glow plug holes and manually fixing the crank to a safe position of BDC.

If you see obvious shattered lifters......!

Remove the head and take all valves out to verify for broken springs.

Line the valves up on the bench to see if they hit a piston buy observing the height is uniform.

Check tops of pistons for index hit points from valves and inspect the seats of the valves in head and decks.

Be sure to inspect the cam bearing journals and remediate carbon in all intake ports while off and that cam bearing bridges have not cracked.

There are kits out there to sell the cam and all lifters etc... for PD, it might be worth a look to change all this stuff while apart.

I wish you well with your repair and tear down....

Best,
Jack​
 
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Gremling

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Hi Jack, thank You for the good and well explained replay.
So far I have discovered 2 bushings splitted int two parts, and 2 small needle pins (seems like part og needle bearing), will contineu to dismantle head during the weekend. At present time, I am leaning towards making him buy a used head, complete With everything.

Again, thanks for a superb forum, with loads of wisdom and advices

Regards
Gremling
 
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Jack@European_Parts

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Yeah a good used head would be the cheapest short path.

New heads are out there too & all over now for PD, cheapest is in bare cylinder head unit.

Maybe even a complete engine is cheaper & BKD should be the same no?
 
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Gremling

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Just an update, and see hyperlink for some of the parts just below.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a6+avant/a6/2006-448/1/103-103038/

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a6+avant/a6/2006-448/1/109-109010/

3 of the exhaust valve roller rocker arms is FUBAR, the thick/wide ones, rollers broke in half with all needle pins (apart from the 10 I found in head) most likely they are down in oil sump. I have checked all valves, they are good, but I did refurbished their seat and seal face, they are now good to go, valve stem OK as well as all valve guide and guide seals in place, no damage in them. What really bugs me is the many marks in pistons 3 and 4 plus in cyl head 3 and 4, the marks corresponds to the needles in roller bearings in rocker arms, but how the hell did they get into the combustion chamber. No physical line of entry from inside top head and into combustion chamber as long as valve stems, valve guides and their seals is present, and without damage (as they are), these needles in 1mm in diameter and 5mm long. The turbo and its bearing is also in perfect condition, furthermore the filter should have picked these up, so the needles can or should be able to get into intake line via oilstream to turbo, nor elsewhere, what am I missing???
Anyway, new stretch (head) bolts for cylinder top and PD rocker arm bolts in order, same is new seals. Still consider buying new complete set of rocker arms for valves or just replace the 3 defect ones in exhaust side, and a few "defect" ones on inlet side.
New timing belt set with water pump is also in order.
When top is done, Ill take down the oilsump and check/remove debris from there as well, hopefully it shall have 2 halves of roller outer race, and a good few of the needles from roller bearings

I would like to post some photos, but do not know hot to do so, but maybe this dropbox works?
https://www.dropbox.com/preview/Public/IMG_6003.jpg?role=personal

https://www.dropbox.com/preview/Public/IMG_5999.jpg?role=personal

https://www.dropbox.com/preview/Public/IMG_6011.jpg?role=personal

Please note, as to me it now seems like this might be an issue with these motors.
I found 3 or 4 roller rocker arms on inlet side with loose centerline pin on roller bearings, this meaning that the roller bearings would eventually be able to come free from the roller rocker arm itself, leaving needles, center-pin (inner bearing race) and bearing outer race floating in top witch could again cause havoc.

All the best to You folks, and heres a link for car parts catalogue, if some people does not have it. just select manufacturer og continue, very easy to use.
https://7zap.com/en/


Regards
Gremling
 
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Gremling

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Finally, after a few weeks off-shore and waiting for parts, I got home and my Father-in-law´s Audi A6 2.0tdi with BRE engine is again working.

I followed the instruction from Audi manual, regarding reassembling cylinder head and fitting to car. Also did a timing belt replacement after finished installing head. There is a few good links I want to share, and they are as hyperlink below. I specially liked the first one, in conjunction to use of manual.
The manual stated that one need to purge the diesel system by means of the lift pump, no less than 3 times. I used Vag Com to activate go to 1 Engine then 4 Basic settings (if no drop down, enter 035 in group and go) and activate. Pump starts for 30 seconds, and repeat ON/OFF. I did this several times, to no avail, engine did not fire up, so I got my "assist tech" and he turned the key, while I used a starter gas. We kept the engine running doing this for roughly 20 seconds, and when I stopped the spray the engine continued by itself or more correctly with diesel as normal.
Warning! And this can not be taken lightly. I do not even thing it is much recommended. Doing this needs experience, and caution, as doing it wrong actually might get engine to turn opposite direction, damaging starter and havoc to engine. First I just did very small dash on filter, and engine reved up. Then I disconnected inlet hose and sprayed at intake manifold, please not that I do not spray directly into manifold, mixture is getting sucked in with air, when spaying inwards to airflow as is enters intake manifold.
I did it like this. Activate Starter with key (do not use keyless for this), then apply very lightly on the starter gas, it only requires a tiny dash. Get the feel for it, and then when I was happy with engine start and behavior, I repeated a few time, and when it starts just tried to find a balance. Also keep in mind that when the injectors starts to pump/inject diesel, the amount of starter spray needs to be reduced, listen to engine rev, I held it between 1000-2000 rpms on starter gas itself and when engine rpm seemed to increase, I reduced amount of spray. Engine Suck/Squeeze/Bang/Blow noice was up to normal, but since I had replaced rocker arms, there was a bit of rattling until oil pressure had built up inside hyd lifters/pushers.

Cylinder-Head check and assembling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpUE2cUF-R8

Timing belt, without removing entire front, and also without disconnecting A/C.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGwDYXFPKK4

I planned to remove the entire oil pan, to get out all the debris/damaged parts, but I got the outer rollers parts and 14ish needle rollers from top itself, and I used a big/strong magnet on entire oil pan and actually got control over every needle rollers missing (I damaged/splitted one roller and counted the needles in here) As The engine had 3 crushed exhaust rocker arms I knew how many I was missing, and the numbers added up. Oil sump/oil pan not removed.

Another thing, it cost money, but this job demands for new head gasket, new head bolts, new bolts for PD rocker arm, and if You do as I did, a complete cylinder head overhaul incl valve refurbishment, you also need the injector bolts. Its highly recommended to change injector o-rings as well, I did one "cylinder" portion at the time, and the kit I got did not contain the injector seals and o-rings. And I used care and devotion during removal and installation, plus keeping cylinder head very clean, and lubricant during installation. I had no problems with leaks afterwards.

Hopefully some of You find this final resume of the 2.0tdi repair useful, if not at least some interesting reading.

Regards
Gremling
 
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