Swapping out ECU in a Amarok

   #1  

Brad H

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Hello all,

I have been caught in a bind with an Amarok.
The vehicle (2011 manual 4x4 Amarok with 2.0 diesel) was purchased from auction and drove well for about 5,000 km before a DPF issue.
The customer removed the DPF & sent the ECU away for a tune. When the ECU returned & was plugged in it didn't start. The tuner had sent the wrong ECU back.
With the correct ECU fitted it wouldn't start. Another shop did a lot of testing and still couldn't get it going.

Towed to me I checked everything I could, HP pump output, SCV operation, injectors were tested, t/belt timing...EVERYTHING.
I contacted a reputable tuning house elsewhere & he suggested the ECU may be damaged. So he supplied my a used ECU sourced from Germany.
He then put the modified tune from the original ECU to this replacement & posted it to me.
I then had it towed to the VW dealer for resetting to the vehicle.
They told me the ECU's SW wouldn't allow it to be programmed to the car.

I sent the ECU back to the tuner who put the program back to a standard file. Back to the dealer, they got further with it this time but still couldn't program it, it kept timing out & wouldn't recognise the ECU.
The service manager tells me that it requires a brand new blank ECU & because this one has already had a VIN programmed into it previously can't be used.

Does anyone know any different to what I've been told?

Brad
 
   #2  

Spacewalker

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if tune up guy have your backup (THEY SHOULD KEEP it) they can easy move immo data from old (missing ECU) to replacement they gave you
if not , is possible to adapt to cluster but need whole car, or immo data from cluster
Nothing can be done with VCDS.
better go back to "tune fuc*** up garage" and tell him to fix , or order brand new ECU via VIN in a dealer and adapt it online
 
   #3  

Jack@European_Parts

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Does anyone know any different to what I've been told?

Yup.........

I absolutely can help.

Send me your cluster and ecu with all existing married keys and I can align here manually or by setting the blocks in eeprom or I can defeat the immobilizer entirely.

Please post an auto-scan and of the data advanced ID in ecu and immobilizer.
 
   #4  

Brad H

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Thanks Jack,

I'll have a chat to the customer and see which way he wants to jump.
 
   #6  

Brad H

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I hate seeing posts where people have left them open without any feedback, so this is where I'm at with this one.
This vehicle had been pushed to one side because the owner had a company vehicle and was in no rush for it.

Last week he parted ways with the company and needs this Amarok going.So back to the start with all my testing....

The story so far...

The DPF was removed & the ECU sent to a tuner for tune/DPF delete.

Incorrect ECU returned to the customer, plugged in and fuel pump fuse popped.

Correct ECU returned (after it was sent to the USA incorrectly, this I just found out) and plugged in. Engine wouldn't start, but Fuel Metering valve got extremely hot (this I also just found out) and a new FMV fitted.

Armed with this last bit of info I tested the PWM signal going to the FMV. I cranked it for about 12 seconds and it started and I found the frequency of the FMV signal at idle to be 755 Hz and get this, 22.7 volts!!https://imgur.com/EYDcTgk
I figured it was the charging system somehow suppling an incorrect voltage, but that is not the case. The alternator is putting out a solid 14.8 volts.
KOEO I was putting out 18 volts!!

I brought my Amarok (2015) into the shop & tested it. At idle, frequency is 188 Hz and 14.7 volts amplitude.https://imgur.com/6XLTi22


So somehow this voltage output from the ECU is 18 volts with the key off.
sXTRLv3


Anyone ever come across something like this before?
 
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   #7  

Jack@European_Parts

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Anyone ever come across something like this before?

Yup...........FOD ECU!

Someone is trying to play around games by installing an EDC17CP14 & when is EDC17CP20 with different hardware!

Ditch that moron who has done that to you or your customer.
 
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